How to strengthen a toilet if it is wobbly

Methods of fixing the toilet and their features

There are three main options for attaching a toilet to the floor:

strengthening using anchors embedded in the screed, or using dowels;
installing the toilet on a wooden base pre-installed in the screed using screws;
fixed with epoxy resin.

What is the best way to fasten during a major floor renovation?

If the toilet is being replaced during a major overhaul, then it is better to use the option with anchor fastening or with a prepared wooden base. In this option, at the stage of forming the screed, anchors are placed on the floor strictly in accordance with the placement of the toilet bowl and mounting holes. As a result, they should protrude above the surface by about 5-6 cm. It is better to cut off the excess later than to face the problem when there is not enough anchor to secure the nut on it.

The wooden board (taffeta) is selected according to the size of the toilet base. Nails are driven into it in a checkerboard pattern over the entire surface so that they protrude from the other side. After this, the board is turned over and installed in the future location of the toilet. Concrete is poured into the screed along with taffeta along its upper edge. After this, you can install the toilet in place and secure it with screws.

Mounting a toilet on a tile

When securing the toilet under the nuts for anchors and on the dowels, it is imperative to wear rubber gaskets, which will protect the toilet from cracking when tightened and prevent the formation of rusty streaks on the ceramics. It is best to use nickel-plated bolts and anchors so that after their service life has expired, they will still be easy to unscrew.

You can completely dispense with the use of screws, dowels and anchors. To do this, just take epoxy resin and properly prepare the surface of the floor and the base of the toilet. This option is best suited if the barrel is installed on a wall, because it makes up half the weight of the entire structure. First of all, you should go over the surface of the floor with an abrasive stone or sandpaper so that the epoxy resin will stick to the surface normally. After this, a layer of a few millimeters of glue is applied to the floor and toilet. Having installed everything in its place, you should wait until the glue dries completely.

Suspended solutions

It is gaining more and more popularity. The wall-hung toilet is installed on the wall without fastenings or contacts with the floor. In order to secure it, it is necessary to build a metal frame that is attached directly to the load-bearing wall, and the toilet itself to it in the event that the tank and pipes are supposed to be hidden behind a plasterboard wall. In some cases, a wall-mounted toilet with an open cistern can be attached directly to the wall, but then you will need to move the sewer pipe into the thickness of the wall. The fastening itself is done using anchors mounted into the wall or frame.

What to do if the toilet starts to wobble, how to fix this problem, step by step?

There are simply a huge number of options, here are just a few:

Toilet installation kits are different.

Bolts can have not only different diameters, but also different lengths.

We unscrewed the old bolts, visited the store with them and bought longer ones, you can even change the diameter to a larger one (it will fit into the old dowels and won’t go anywhere).

We screwed in new bolts in place of the old ones.

If the problem is with the spinning dowels, remove the toilet from the sewer after unscrewing the bolts.

We took the dowels out of the floor, filled the hole with tile adhesive, and pressed the dowels into the fresh adhesive.

A day later, the bolts were tightened, the toilet would stand rooted to the spot.

In addition to this option, we changed the dowel to a larger dowel (see above about different sets), for example, it was 8-a, now it is 10-a.

They lifted the edge of the toilet, removed it, and degreased it.

Silicone sanitary sealant was pressed under the sole of the toilet (a gun is needed)

It’s even better to remove the toilet and walk along the sole of the toilet with fine sandpaper to the sealant, improving adhesion.

Instead of sealant, you can use tile adhesive, that is, remove the toilet and place it on the glue, without bolting it to the floor.

There are other options, dozens of them, a lot depends on whether we are removing the toilet or trying to eliminate the looseness in place, if in place, then sealant, tile adhesive and replacing the bolts with larger ones are the best options.

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Installation with adhesive composition

The use of glue ensures maximum convenience and ease of installation. Using adhesive solutions, work can only be done on smooth surfaces, so it is better to mount the toilet to the floor on tiles. This requirement is due to the fact that connection to an uneven surface will not provide reliable adhesion of the plumbing fixture due to the thin adhesive layer.

Epoxy-based adhesive is used for installation. There are two options for preparing the solution:

purchase of ready-made mixture;
preparing the mixture yourself.

Factory-made epoxy compounds are diluted with water strictly according to the instructions on the packaging. Failure to comply with the manufacturer's recommendations will lead to a violation of the characteristics of the solution. To save money, the toilet is attached to a hand-made solution. To do this you will need to prepare the necessary components:

epoxy resin ED-6 (take 100 parts);
cement (take 200 parts);
solvent or plasticizer (take 20 parts);
hardener (take 35 parts).

A modifier is introduced into the resin heated to 50-65ᵒC, after which a hardener is added. The last component of the mixture is cement and the composition is thoroughly mixed. Heating the epoxy resin is done in a water bath.

The toilet bowl is fastened to the floor only using a proven adhesive mixture that meets the requirements. The lifespan of the solution (the time during which the mixture is used) is 1-1.5 hours.

There are hidden fastenings (no glue)

To secure the toilet to the tiled floor, work is carried out in the following order:

Cleaning the floor from dust and other contaminants

You also need to clean the plumbing fixture from dirt, paying especially careful attention to the base. The tiles are cleaned to increase adhesion (adhesion to the surface). To ensure reliable fixation, the tiled surface is made rough. Surface degreasing

For this step, use a solvent or acetone. Preparation of adhesive solution. After completing the preparations, you need to secure the toilet. To do this, the adhesive composition is applied to the base of the plumbing fixture, and the fixture is installed in the design position, aligned with the pipes. The adhesive layer is assumed to be 5 mm.

It will take 12 hours for the adhesive solution to harden. During this time, you cannot connect plumbing or touch the device. If possible, wait longer, after which you can connect the device and use it.

you need to quickly install the fasteners for the toilet (there is no time to wait for the solution to harden);
fixing the toilet with minimal effort;
the base for the plumbing fixture is level, without slopes or differences.

If the last condition is not met, flushing problems will arise during the operation of the plumbing fixture.

This method provides reliable fixation for lightweight models of plumbing fixtures. To distribute the load, the toilet is installed on the tile using a gasket. The gasket for the device is made independently:

find a piece of old linoleum or rubber;
You need to place a toilet on the material and trace the outline of the base with a marker;
The gasket is cut along the contour with a knife or special scissors.

Dowels or bolts for attaching the toilet to the floor are included in the kit sold along with the plumbing fixture. In addition to these fasteners, long metal dowels are used, and the quality of fastening does not suffer. Work order:

Marking the installation site. The use of fasteners requires precise installation and marking. Before attaching the toilet to the floor, place the device in its installation location and trace the outline with a marker.
The second stage of work is to lubricate the floor covering with sealant and attach the manufactured gasket.
Preparing holes for fastening. They should be slightly wider than the diameter of the dowels. This will ensure ease of installation of the device.
Fasteners are driven into the prepared holes.
Next you need to correctly install the plumbing and screw it on. The fasteners are tightened carefully; if you tighten them too much, the ceramic from which the device is made will be damaged.
Connecting the toilet to the sewer.

If there are several plumbing fixtures in a house or apartment, a toilet stand is required. It is needed to ensure a difference in height when water moves in the pipes. To do this, use a board 32-40 mm thick, from which a stand is cut out according to the shape of the base of the plumbing fixture. The part is placed on the floor under a rubber backing.

On some surfaces, a substrate is used for fastening

What to do if the toilet is dancing, toilet repair

In this article you will not find laughable advice, such as: film his dance, or dance with him. We provide instructions on how to repair a toilet if it is dancing.

To fix a dancing toilet, you need to determine the cause: why it wobbles. It depends on how you carry out the repairs.

The toilet swings due to an uneven floor - what to do?

An uneven surface is one of the most common causes of a dancing toilet. In this case, it is not necessary to redo the entire floor. You can level the surface only under the toilet. And he will forget how to dance for at least 5 years.

1.Unscrew the toilet from the floor and move it to the side.

2. Pull out the dowels into which the screws were screwed from the mounting holes in the floor.

You will also have to dismantle the flooring in the place where the toilet is located. For example, if there are tiles, remove 2 pieces. If it’s linoleum, you need to cut out a piece and partially unscrew the screed. Don't forget to remove the crumbs from the holes where the dowel-nails used to be.

To prevent the toilet from wobbling again, they make a cement base and apply sealant to it, on which the toilet will then stand

3.Next there are several options.

First, make a solution of cement and sand in a ratio of 1:2 or 1:3. And concrete the floor with it. Afterwards, you can put back the cut piece of linoleum and seal the cut with tape.

Second - lay 2 new tiles, but this time evenly.

4.After 3-4 days you can screw the toilet into its place.

There are other ways to “level” the floor, which will last for a year or two. For example, make a toilet lining from wood, or better yet, from plastic. But, because it should be several cm wider than the base of the toilet; it will not look so ignoble. And you can constantly touch it with your feet if the bathroom is small.

Repair instructions for loose fasteners

What should I do if the toilet is dancing because the screws are not holding the floor? Pulling them tighter is not an option. It’s better to buy thicker screws instead of the old ones (if, of course, they fit into the toilet bowl’s ears). Unscrew the toilet, clean the holes and drill them exactly for the new dowels. Then re-screw the toilet using new screws.

If the problem is in the fastenings, replace the dowels with “bigger” ones.

How to determine that the problem is in the fastenings? Shake the toilet with your hands. If the dowels move up and down, your guess is correct.

You can go another way. For example, move the toilet slightly to the side and make new holes. Or clean the old ones, cover them with cement mortar, and then drill again (you can also put a lining on top). There will be some effect.

What to do if the toilet itself is crooked?

Sometimes the “white friend” begins to dance because of its uneven base. In this case, the gap between it and the floor is sealed with transparent sealant. If the gap is more than 4 mm, wood or plastic chips are driven in there. With them, the toilet will last another six months. And then you need to buy a new one (see the article “Where to buy a good toilet? Review of stores, hit parade of best-selling models”).

A toilet that has uneven bases can be temporarily secured with plastic or rubber “chips.”

In general, all of the above methods work well, at least for a while. So choose the most convenient one for yourself, and the toilet will no longer dance. Unless, of course, you yourself jump and ride on it.

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Reasons for a loose toilet

Over time, even the most expensive and durable plumbing fixtures can fail. Before you begin to fix the problem, you need to determine why he started “walking.” This usually happens for three reasons:

uneven floor;
the initial installation was carried out with errors;
toilet base with defects.

An uneven floor may be the reason why the toilet is rocking. Warping of the floor usually occurs if it is made of wood and does not have a concrete backing.
Over time, the wood sags, the fastenings become loose and the equipment begins to sway. Sometimes cracks form where the floorboards and screws meet, causing the toilet to tilt to the sides. When, during repair work, the floor screed is performed incorrectly, it becomes crooked. The toilet simply cannot stand level on such a surface and begins to “walk”. A similar situation arises when the plumbing itself was initially installed incorrectly, without performing the technology. If you do not observe the ratio of holes and recesses, then problems will certainly arise soon.

How to solve the problem with loose plumbing yourself?

How to install a toilet on a tiled, wooden and concrete floor? “Dancing” toilets are quite common. Such little things, as a rule, drive apartment owners crazy, making adjustments to everyday life. They make us nervous, irritate us, and some even drive us into hysterics. Therefore, such problems must be resolved promptly. Below we will look at how to solve such issues in cases with wood, concrete and tile floors.

Wooden floor

Your toilet is wobbly - what should you do if it's on a wooden floor? The answer to this question is very simple! It is enough to move it slightly and re-screw the screws, but in a different place. This process is greatly facilitated by a corrugated drain pipe.

Concrete floor

Fixing such problems when it comes to a concrete foundation is much more difficult. But anyone can cope with this. Thus, concrete floors with embedded boards are often found in buildings dating back to the existence of the USSR. To resume fastening, you need to perform a few simple manipulations:

Clean your plumbing fixtures thoroughly.
Turn off the cold water supply to the device.
Remove the tank.
Remove the sewer drain connecting pipe.
Unscrew the fasteners.

Once the concrete is dry, follow these steps:

Install the toilet, mark the points for its attachment.
Make holes in the concrete using a hammer drill.
Secure the device.
Reinstall the cistern.
Connect the water.
Replace the sewer drain.

By doing this simple work, you will get rid of the problem. Pay maximum attention to the accuracy of marking the holes for placing dowels.

Ceramic tiles (video)

Situations when the toilet on the tiles wobble are no less common. We will find out what to do in this case further. The fact is that the device cannot be fixed reliably if serious mistakes were made at the stage of laying the tiles. Solving such a problem radically is perhaps the most difficult, because removing tiles is a rather labor-intensive process:

Experts strongly recommend starting with the simplest option - using plastic pads, the thickness of which can vary. They will help eliminate the backlash.
If this option turns out to be ineffective, you will have to re-lay the tiles and install the toilet.

What should I do if my toilet is dancing? We answer pressing questions

You can often hear the question from ordinary people: “What should I do if my toilet is dancing?” Annoying little things often drive us crazy in everyday life. They haunt us, sometimes making us nervous, sometimes leading us to hysterics. But in any case, they must be eliminated.

Why is my toilet dancing and what can I do about it? ↑

Installing a toilet - a detailed video lesson
It is necessary to find the cause of this misunderstanding. Experts say there are three reasons:

Uneven floor.
Poor fastening of the toilet to the floor.
Uneven surface of the toilet bottom.

Let's start with an uneven floor. First, you need to wash it. It is more pleasant to work in clean conditions. Secondly, dismantle the plumbing fixture. To do this, turn off the water supply, dismantle the tank and remove the connecting pipe that connects the toilet to the riser of the sewer system.

After this, the fasteners that connect the toilet to the floor are unscrewed. This must be done carefully, the toilet is a fragile device, it can easily be split or damaged.

Now pay attention to this moment. Previously, toilets were installed on a wooden base, which was mounted into a concrete floor niche. Usually it was a piece of fifty board. Under the influence of water and moisture, the wood quickly failed. It warped, became loose, and cracked, which is why many people asked the question: “Why is my toilet dancing?” To solve this problem, it was only necessary to change the wooden base.

But such a base for a toilet is rare to find today. Most often this is a concrete floor, and often lined with ceramic tiles. And leveling such a floor is quite difficult. There is no point in breaking it, and there is no point in removing the tiles either. The only option is to level it using shims. They must be made of durable, waterproof and non-swelling material. Ideally it is plastic. The thickness of the gaskets should be different. But keep in mind that you will only need them if the gap that caused the toilet to wobble exceeds four millimeters.

If a third reason is discovered, then this can be corrected in two ways. The first is to install rubber or wood pads, that is, remove the backlash. True, this is an ineffective option. The second radical method is to replace the toilet with a new one with a flat bottom.

Restoring the fastening ↑

Video instructions for installing a toilet
If the toilet is wobbly due to poor-quality fastening, then you should not tighten the old bolts. This won't lead to anything good. The irreparable may happen, the toilet will simply burst at the points where it is attached to the floor. If you are convinced that the reason for the “dance” is in the fastening elements, then you should dismantle the toilet, as described above.

What to do next? There are two options here, but one is always taken as the basis. You will have to purchase dowels of a larger diameter and drill the mounting holes exactly for them. Then the toilet is installed in place and tightened with new fasteners. This is the easiest way, by the way, and the most reliable.

If the holes for the dowels are broken, there is no point in drilling them again; it is better to move the toilet.

Relocating a toilet is a more complex process that involves not only installing the toilet, but also connecting it to the sewer riser. Here you will have to adjust the cuff that connects the toilet flush to the shaped pipe of the riser. And, as practice shows, it will take a long time to tinker with the fit. A quick option is a pleated cuff.

Small nuances of eliminating causes ↑

If we talk about the first two reasons, then it is necessary to note one additional process, which is mandatory. This is the treatment of the perimeter of the toilet base with silicone sealant. It is best applied to both the toilet and the base. The layer should be thick. After installing the toilet, it is best to remove the excess.

Allow the sealant to dry completely, this may take more than one day, it all depends on the temperature inside the toilet. During this period, it is better not to use the toilet.

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Some problems

Sometimes, after a couple of years of service, the toilet loses its original appearance. Traces of rust appear on it. This happens due to low-quality components of the tank. It is almost impossible to eliminate an old phenomenon of this type, especially if the unit is made of sanitary ware. When purchasing toilets, you must carefully monitor the quality of all components.

Water may damage the unit. The quality of water, as a rule, does not meet the standards to which units of Western brands are developed.

Sometimes the plastic elements in the tank design do not hold up. They can bend due to temperature changes or mechanical stress. If the tank fails prematurely, this indicates that the quality of the kit was not very high to begin with.

Problems with water flow often indicate that the float valve is not installed correctly. You need to adjust it, and the water consumption will be reduced.

In order for the toilet to retain its original appearance for many years, it is necessary to constantly keep it clean. You can use a number of products to care for it. For example, to avoid having to constantly wash and clean the inner surface, various gels and tablets are used today.

Baking soda and vinegar are indispensable tools for cleaning your toilet. If red stripes begin to appear on the surface of the unit, they can be eliminated with a solution of vinegar in hot water. Baking soda will gently and carefully clean the surface of dirt.

For severe contamination, use special solutions. They usually contain hydrochloric acid. There are different types of contaminants, so the range of cleaning products is also very wide. When purchasing, you need to clarify whether a specific composition is suitable for the product. They differ not only in the nature of the impact, but are also produced for toilets made of certain materials.

During a major overhaul or due to a plumbing failure, it is most often necessary to replace the toilet. In order for everything to go smoothly, you should take into account a number of features of this process and correctly approach the choice of a new toilet. To carry out all the work, you can seek help from the plumbers of your housing office or from private craftsmen who will perform all the necessary operations. However, installing a toilet yourself will save a lot of money, and understanding the whole process will help you choose the best option and installation method.

A complete toilet replacement is part of a major overhaul and includes the following items:

– choose a new toilet according to the mounting method and flushing method;
– dismantle the old toilet;
– repair the room (replacement of cladding, screed, sewer pipes, etc.);
– installation and connection of a new toilet.

It is very important to select and purchase a new toilet in advance. This takes into account a number of features and nuances.

Method No. 2: glue installation

Of all the methods for fixing a toilet to the floor, this is the simplest, but at the same time the most time-consuming. It takes about 12-15 hours for the epoxy mixture, which is used as glue, to harden. This method can only be used on a smooth surface. It is most often used to secure equipment to floor tiles. The method is very simple to implement. First, both surfaces to be glued must be thoroughly cleaned of dust and debris. Floor tiles can be sanded down to make them rougher. This will improve the adhesion of the material. Surfaces are degreased with any solvent or acetone.

Prepare the glue. You can buy a ready-made epoxy compound or prepare it yourself. To do this, you need to take 100 parts of ED-6 epoxy resin, 200 parts of cement, 20 parts of solvent or plasticizer and 35 parts of hardener. The sequence of adding components to the solution is important. First, the resin is heated to 50C, a solvent is added to it, then a hardener and, at the very end, cement. The composition must be constantly stirred to form a plastic, homogeneous mass.

To ensure that the toilet is securely fixed in place, the floor covering is prepared: it is cleaned for better adhesion and coated with a small layer of glue. Excess composition released under the weight of the equipment is immediately removed with a damp cloth.

A properly prepared adhesive mixture can be used within one and a half hours. We apply it to the base of the toilet so that the solution covers an area of at least 20 square meters. cm, and the layer thickness was at least 4 mm. We install the prepared equipment in the right place, aligning the sewer socket with the outlet, and forcefully press it to the floor. After which we leave the device for at least 12 hours. This period is necessary for the adhesive to harden. During this time, it is not recommended to even touch the toilet. Then we connect the equipment to the water supply and sewerage.

Method No2. How to fix a toilet with glue

This method is almost as popular as the previous one. For fixation in this case, use a special construction adhesive (you can buy it in a specialized store) or a mixture prepared with your own hands from epoxy resin. In addition, toilets are often secured with simple silicone sealant.

How to fix a toilet with glue

Reliability. A device fixed with glue/sealant will definitely not wobble.
No dirt, dust. Therefore, there will be no need to clean up after the work is completed.
Easy to install. To work, you do not need to have any serious knowledge or experience. You just need to know how to work with a glue gun.
Safety. By attaching a toilet with glue, you do not risk damaging its bowl.

Do not forget that this method also requires some patience - it will take 12-24 hours for the glue to dry completely (which means you cannot use the toilet during this time).

Epoxy is the best adhesive for toilet bowls

To secure the plumbing fixture, prepare everything you need, namely:

roulette;
silicone-based sealant or glue;
square;
ammonia;
marker;
sandpaper;
spatula (you will need a narrow one);
a spray bottle filled with soap solution;
a rag.

Installing a toilet: a – preparing the installation site; b – preparation of the base; c – coating the bottom of the toilet with glue; d – installation of a toilet; d – installation of the tank; e – sealing of the socket; g – connecting the tank to the water supply network; h – adjusting the water level in the tank; and - a fully installed toilet

After preparing everything you need, follow the step-by-step guide below.

Step 1. The toilet is tried on - placed on a pre-placed cardboard so as not to damage the floor covering. The convenience of the device is checked, how best to connect it to the sewer/water supply.

The toilet is being tried on

Step 2. The product is centered, for which you can take a tape measure or a corner. The distance to the walls on the right and left is indicated.

The distance is indicated on the left. The distance is indicated on the right. The toilet is centered.

Step 3. The cardboard is removed from under the toilet. The device is aligned with the walls of the room, for which you will need, as in the point above, a tape measure or a corner.

The product is re-leveled

Step 4. The part of the bowl that will be in contact with the floor is outlined with a marker.

The contour of the support is outlined

Step 5. The edge of the support is cleaned with sandpaper or a knife. It should turn out perfectly smooth - this way the adhesion to the glue will be maximum.

The edge of the support is cleaned

Step 6. Where the toilet will be installed, the tiles are treated with ammonia to degrease. Then wipe dry with a microfiber cloth.

The tiles are degreased

Step 7. Sealant or glue is applied to the edge of the support

It is important to correctly calculate the amount of adhesive, because if there is too much of it, you can stain the tiles, and if not enough, then the attachment of the toilet to the floor will be fragile

Glue is applied to the edge of the supportThe adhesive composition is applied

Step 8. After treatment with glue, the toilet is brought into the toilet and carefully placed in the place that was marked at the beginning of the process. It is better to do this with an assistant, so as not to stain the tiles with glue and not to install the product crookedly.

Installing a toiletIt is advisable to do everything with an assistant

Step 9. The floor around the support is sprayed with soapy water. This will ensure that any excess sealant that needs to be trimmed away will not stick to the tile.

The floor around the support is sprayed with soapy water

Step 10. A spatula is moistened in a soapy solution and used to remove any remaining adhesive.

Residues of glue are removed with a spatula. Residues of glue or sealant must be removed immediately after attaching the toilet to the floor in order to prevent the composition from drying out and staining the tiles.

Step 11. After some time - on average, 12-24 hours - the glue or other composition used to fix the toilet will dry. The product must not be used or moved during this time.

Step 12. Now, after the glue has completely dried, work can continue. It is connected to the sewer network, a tank is installed and connected to the water supply, a seat with a lid is installed, etc.

Methods for fixing the toilet to the floor

There are several methods for installing a toilet to the floor, which are used not only by home consumers, but also by professionals - representatives of elite construction companies. They differ in the list of tools used. The most popular methods for attaching a toilet to the floor are:

using dowels;
using sealant or glue;
on taffeta.

Each method has its own characteristics, advantages and disadvantages. Fastening with dowels is the most popular method due to its accessibility and primitiveness. Requires drilling holes in tiles. This should be done as carefully as possible, since any incorrect movement will lead to its damage. Ideally, there should be no tiles on the floor at all. It is better to fasten lightweight products to dowels.

The popularity of fastening with construction adhesive is inferior to dowels. Alternatively, silicone sealant or epoxy resin compounds can be used. Prepare them yourself, following the attached instructions. They must be purchased at specialized construction stores. It is better to give preference to popular brands.

The method of attaching the toilet to the floor using taffeta is outdated, but still in use. Taffeta is a wooden backing, the height of which is about 5 cm. It is installed on a specially prepared recess with concrete mortar. A large number of nails are dug into the bottom side (anchors will do). In this way, the wooden taffeta is securely fixed in the recess.

The toilet is already installed on the taffeta and secured with special screws

It is important to remember that wood is susceptible to moisture typical of a toilet or bathroom. For this reason, this part must be treated with a special solution

Useful tips

Toilet materials, despite their strength, are still fragile. For this reason, do not use force when securing with bolts or screws. In order to reduce pressure, softening pads must be placed under the screw heads.

Please note that when using an adhesive composition, you should first pay attention to the surface, which should be thoroughly degreased. If epoxy resin is used for fastening, then the proportions of solvent and base substance should be strictly observed. Cover the surface with adhesive evenly so that there are no bubbles.

Instead of wood, you can use multi-layer high-quality plywood as taffeta. It is important to obtain good waterproofing so that the gasket does not collapse after a while.

Securing the toilet to a concrete floor

It is much more difficult to fix the problem if the flooring has a concrete base. In old buildings from the USSR, the devices were installed on concrete floors with embedded boards. In this case, to improve fastening, perform the following steps:

Shut off the water supply to the toilet.
Dismantle the drain tank.
Disconnect the sewer drain pipe.
Remove the bolts securing the plumbing fixtures to the floor.

Important!

Further work is carried out carefully so as not to damage the fragile material of the old toilet. To eliminate the damage, the old backing board is removed and new lumber of considerable thickness is laid in its place.

Can this place just be cleared and concreted?

To eliminate the damage, the old backing board is removed and new lumber of considerable thickness is laid in its place. You can simply clear this place and concrete it.

After the concrete has hardened, plumbing installation is carried out in the following order:

Having placed the toilet in the desired area, mark the points where it will be attached.
The plumbing fixtures are removed and holes are made in the marked area using a hammer drill.
The device is secured with bolts.
Reinstall the drain tank.
The plumbing is connected to the sewer pipes using a corrugated line.

Why does the toilet wobble and “dance”?

Many people have probably noticed that some toilets wobble relative to the floor when they are used.
No one is immune from this phenomenon. There are a number of reasons, by eliminating which you can restore the stability of the toilet. The toilet is poorly attached to the floor; the screws that secure the toilet to the floor do not stick to the floor. If you have wooden floors, you need to check whether the hole in the floor for attaching the toilet is loose. If the screws no longer hold in the wood, you can move the toilet relative to its old position and drill new holes in the floor for the mounting screws.

There may be minor irregularities in the lower part of the toilet leg, which, when installing the toilet on a perfectly flat floor, can cause it to not fit tightly and wobble. To do this, during final installation you can use so-called white cement or high-quality silicone sealant. When installing the toilet in its place, the gap between the floor and the toilet is filled with cement or sealant. Such a measure will be able to resist not only rocking, but also the ingress of debris and the accumulation of dirt under the toilet.

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Installing a toilet on tiles using cement mortar

Installing a toilet on tile using this method is not the best option. It is suitable for cases when the toilet is installed in place of a dismantled one or when installation tools are not available.

To attach a toilet to a tiled floor without drilling using cement mortar, you need the following tools:

cement mortar or cement-based tile adhesive;
marker or pencil;
hammer;
spatula (narrow and medium);
chisel.

Before you begin, you need to roughly check the joints of all installation elements by installing the device in the intended location and connecting all the necessary plumbing elements. Then you need to outline the base with a marker or pencil. Using a chisel, it is necessary to apply notches at the marks.

The next step is to prepare the cement mortar; the cement mortar is diluted 2:1. The cement mixture contains large admixtures of sand, which can affect hardening. It is best to use a ready-made mixture of tile adhesive, as it is much more reliable and dries faster. Calculate the preparation of the solution for 4 kilograms.

Once the mixture is prepared, it should be carefully applied to the notched area. Before gluing the toilet to the tile using the resulting composition, you need to moisten the surface a little. The base of the device’s leg must also be moistened and installed in the place allocated for it.

On the front and back sides, plastic plates must be placed under the base, the thickness of which should be 5 mm and the width 50 mm

The base of the device’s legs must also be moistened and installed in the place allocated for it. On the front and back sides, plastic plates must be placed under the base, the thickness of which should be 5 mm and the width 50 mm.

Remove excess solution using a spatula. After drying, it is necessary to remove the pads and concrete the holes from them with the same solution. Do not use plumbing fixtures for 5 days.

If in the future you want to dismantle it, this will happen by splitting its base. This means that it can no longer be reinstalled.

Preparatory work before installing the toilet

Find a comfortable toilet pipe length

The drain sink is installed when the work on tiling the walls and floors with ceramic tiles is completed.

If you install the plumbing first, and then start installing the ceramic floor covering, you will have to deal with rather complex cutting in the slabs to contour the base of the pedestal of the plumbing fixture.

This will cause a risk of damage to the cladding if the selection of cut tiles is unsuccessful.

When covering walls and floors with ceramic tiles, you need to achieve a convenient length for the protrusion of the water pipe from the wall.

The outlet of the water pipe must be such that a shut-off valve can be installed.

Installation on ceramic tiles

In modern apartments, the floor in the bathroom is usually made of tiles. Then the plumbing has a backlash when the tiles are not level and have differences. This type of defect is the most difficult to eliminate. After all, in order to get rid of the wobbling of the plumbing fixture, you must first eliminate the unevenness of the floor. It is impossible to do this without dismantling the tiles.

Therefore, to begin with, the problem is eliminated by placing a plastic gasket under the base of the plumbing fixture. Such devices are sold in hardware stores and are quite inexpensive. If this option does not bring the desired result and the instability continues, dismantle the tiles and lay the covering again.

Silicone sealant is sometimes used as a gasket. They coat the area of the tiled floor where the device should be located. When the material is completely dry, install it. This method helps to temporarily solve the problem of a wobbly device.

Installation on ceramic tiles

Important!