Pruning grapes in autumn: how to prune correctly, diagrams

Is it necessary or why to prune grapes in the fall?

Both in growing grapes on an industrial scale and for oneself, the crop must be pruned for better fruiting. By forming a bush, the release of new shoots is achieved, which form into the vines with the onset of summer. In addition to the main advantage, pruning in the autumn plays an important role in other aspects:

1) correct formation of fruit links;

2) rejuvenation of culture;

3) reducing the size of grape bushes at any age;

4) reducing polarity on the vines;

5) the formation of large clusters and berries, as in the first few years of the growing season;

6) shortening the growing season to obtain an early harvest;

7) accumulation of more sugar in the berries, which is responsible for the sweetness of the crop;

reduction of agricultural technology points with the onset of spring.

Important!
To maintain the annual grape yield, agronomists advise not to forget about pruning in the fall. With its help, the crop survives the winter months better, renews itself, and produces a tasty and healthy harvest for the full functioning of the body next year. Ripe berries can be consumed either fresh or canned, using them as an ingredient for jam, juice or compote. With experience in winemaking, gardeners and gardeners can use brushes as a base for grape wine.

How grapes grow and bear fruit

The growth characteristics of the grape bush are as follows:

In the first year of fruiting, a branch grows from the bud, called an annual vine. A cluster (or several clusters) of berries is formed on an annual shoot.
The following year, the one-year-old vine becomes two-year-old. The fruit cluster no longer grows on it, but new shoots-vines can emerge from each bud. Clusters form on new vines - the so-called next year's harvest.
In the third year, the vine of the second year becomes old, perennial. Fruit clusters will not grow on it, and new shoots will not actively grow. Therefore, they try to leave only one- and two-year-old vines on the grape bush. In order to support active wood renewal and good fruiting.

So, to summarize - how do young grapes grow? Annual vines bear fruit. The next year they become biennial and do not bear fruit, but produce new annual shoots. The crop ripens on annual shoots.

The description of the growth of the grape bush explains the obvious fact: the vines require annual pruning. If you give each bud the opportunity to sprout a sprout and a branch, then after 2 years the vines will intertwine. Their competition with each other for a place in the sun will lead to depletion of wood and poor fruiting of the bush. This is especially noticeable when grapes grow in a limited area - a few square meters.

Grapevine, name of parts and structural features

Like any plant, the grape bush is divided into several parts. Many gardeners manage to compare the structure of a crop with the human body. 7 terms are required to be memorized and clearly defined in order to easily grow strong grape bushes, distinguished by correctly formed vines and large clusters.

Name of parts to determine structural features:

1) The heel is the underground part of the grape bush, hidden in the soil. Thanks to the presence of this zone, the grapes form strong roots, allowing the crop to take root better, receive nutrients and moisture for the formation of ovaries.

2) The stem is a continuation of the heel, extending outward. The gap is calculated from the base to the first shoot, as with any shrub or tree.

3) Head - is the basis for the formation of secondary shoots and eyes.

4) Fruit arrow - considered a term used for better understanding during pruning. After pruning, gardeners leave from 7 to 10 buds necessary for proper vegetation. It is this segment that has such an unusual name.

5) Knot replacement - found on both young and mature grape bushes. In comparison with the fruit arrow, it has no more than 3 eyes for further growth. A small number of buds classifies part of the culture as an addition to the main mass.

6) Fruit link is a term that combines several substitution knots and fruit shoots. With its help, an experienced gardener can clearly determine how rich the next year's harvest will be.

Pruning a young bush

Young grape bush.

Experienced gardeners sometimes recommend moving it to spring (immediately after buds open): it is believed that autumn wounds weaken young bushes before wintering.

Many ways of forming cultivated grapes have been invented. Let's look at the basic designs:

Fan

Convenient for covering grapes (in the Moscow region, in many regions of the Black Earth and Volga regions, in the North-West, in the Urals, in Siberia). The fruit links are arranged in a fan (like the feathers in the tail of a peacock). They sit on short arms (each no more than half a meter long), which form the perennial base of the bush. Each sleeve carries one fruiting link.

In the first year, the seedling grows 1 strong shoot. Often only the very bottom ripens (turns brown). The vine is pruned very short, leaving only 2–4 buds at the base. Only 2 are needed, the rest are reserves. When the buds begin to grow in the spring, you need to make sure that no more than two shoots grow on the stump on opposite sides of the branch (pluck out the rest).
During the second year of life, the bush grows 2 shoots. They are cut short again in the fall - by 2 buds.
By the third autumn, 4 branches should already form on small stumps. If the bush is thin, then short pruning is repeated. On a powerful plant, you can already complete the formation of the sleeves. To do this, the vines are pruned at a height of about half a meter (sometimes even lower).
In the fourth summer, each vine branches. Of all the branches on each vine (sleeve), only 2 upper shoots are left (the rest are plucked out). In autumn, the topmost shoot is cut into 5–8 buds (this will be a fruitful vine), and the one located under it (on the opposite side of the branch) is cut short, leaving 2 buds (this is a replacement knot).

Sometimes gardeners allow the bush to bear fruit already from the second or third year, carrying out longer pruning.

Soon a delicious fruit will ripen from this!

Long sleeve

Grapevine in the form of two sleeves.

In the first year, a long vine is grown (this is the future perennial basis: it is believed that a large amount of perennial wood stores a lot of nutrients, and this will make the berries sweeter). In autumn, the top is trimmed (leaving no more than 10 buds).
The next season, the branch is tied almost horizontally, and in the summer side shoots grow upward along its entire length (like the teeth of a comb). In autumn, each of them is pruned short, leaving 2 buds. These are the foundations-stumps of future fruit links.
In the fall of the third year, fruit links are formed (leaving a replacement knot and a fruiting vine on each stump).

They also make 2 long sleeves, spreading them in opposite directions. To do this, 2 long vines are grown in the first or second year.

Standard (for uncovered crops)

Standard formation of a grape bush.

For a trunk (up to 1.5 meters high), one strong shoot (about 8 buds long) is grown.
In the spring of next year, only 2-3 buds are left on the trunk at the top, and the rest are plucked down the trunk.
Next, “shoulders” (like sleeves) with fruit links (again in the form of a “scallop”) are formed at the top.

For standard and sleeve structures, the term “cordon” is sometimes also used.

Correct formation of a grape bush

For a beginner doing pruning for the first time, it is quite difficult to understand the pruning technique from visual pictures and photos. Information is better remembered with the help of a demonstration video. Below is a simple diagram for pruning grapevines so that the buds form horizontal rather than vertical shoots. In this way, the space occupied will be reduced, and the summer resident will not have to come up with reinforcing structures using a ladder, wire and nylon for garter.

When to prune

Depending on the age of the grapes, its variety, and climatic conditions, one or the other is made. The event can be held in spring or autumn.

The grape bush has stages of growth:

Young grapes. Age up to five years. All this time it does not bear fruit, but fruitful branches of the vineyard are created. This is exactly why pruning is needed.
Ripe grapes. The vineyard bears fruit for up to 25 years. Pruning is done to allow new shoots to grow. Old ones are removed to create fruitful branches of the bush.
Old grapes. To continue fruiting and rejuvenate the bush, mandatory pruning is carried out. This is done when the plant fades away.

Better grape formation in the first year of life

Many agronomists insist on the opinion that pruning a young bush that has just taken root in the soil is mandatory. The reason for the dramatic formation of young vines is improved fruiting and proper growth. Provided the correct scheme is chosen, the grape shoots will form a strong trunk, capable of subsequently forming fruit links annually.

Grapes planted in the autumn months are primarily pruned in the spring. In April, all the vines are removed, leaving 2-3 of the lowest buds. When forming vines in the summer, young grapes are tied to a stretched wire, tying each branch with an eight-fold nylon knot so that the thin structure of the peel cannot be damaged. The vines are straightened in different directions for a full set of foliage and clusters of grapes.

Repeated pruning is carried out at the end of autumn, when it gets significantly colder. When performing agricultural techniques, garden varnish is used so that the grapes do not lose their juice. The scheme is quite simple:

the first shoot is the shortest, 2-3 buds remain;
the second is a little longer, about 4 buds;
third and last - no more than 6-7.

There is no need to cover the grapes after pruning. Before performing insulation, it is necessary to lay the trunk to the ground, securing it with a trellis or a metal arc, leaving it in this position for 1-2 weeks. And only after spending time is it possible to cover with felt, burlap, window frames or synthetic old carpet. The material should fit tightly around the plant and roots so that harsh winters cannot freeze the young crop.

Vine pruning

Grape bushes are pruned only in autumn. How to properly prune grapes for the winter to get high yields? To do this, a special procedure is performed, which is carried out in two approaches. The first occurs after the harvest. During this period, dried and very thick branches are removed. The second stage takes place 14 days after all the leaves have fallen off. It is advisable that the temperature does not drop more than 6 degrees.

Pruning grapes for the winter can begin as early as a one-year-old seedling. There are two main schemes: fan and stamp.

Fan method

The fan pattern for pruning grapes is considered the most common. It is commonly used in northern and temperate regions. How to prune grapes for the winter so that there are no problems with covering? After all, large overgrown bushes are quite difficult to cover. The fan method allows you to rejuvenate the vineyard well and after trimming the crown, the entire bush can easily be covered for the winter. With this method, branches appear that grow vertically in relation to the main trunk, forming a fan. With this scheme, the yield and protection of grapes from freezing in winter significantly increases. This technique can also be called a stampless scheme. The procedure is very simple, but requires compliance with certain rules:

One-year-old seedlings must be pruned to preserve 2–3 buds.
In the second year, two branches grow from the seedling, on which 3-4 buds are already left.
In the third year of growth, two more shoots should sprout from each shoot. By autumn they usually reach 1 meter in length. In this case, the lower shoot extends outward from the bush. When pruning in autumn, the branches are kept about 50 cm in size.

In other years, fruitful shoots are created from the resulting branches, retaining 7–8 buds. They also leave a replacement branch with 2-3 buds. The branch for fruiting should be tied vertically to the trellises of the vineyard. In the fall, after the fan has formed, the vine is pruned for fruiting. Then these branches begin to form from the remaining replacement branches. On a bush, such shoots reach 6–8 pieces. Such a small number of branches can be easily hidden for the winter. This scheme can be used for arbor and covered methods of growing grapes.

Stamp method

The stamp scheme is used in the southern regions, where there is no need to cover shrubs for the winter. The main task is to form a strong trunk. Carried out during the first 6 years. They begin to form a stamp from the first year of life of the grapes. To carry out the correct procedure, you should adhere to the following rules:

During the first year, the seedling retains 2–3 eyes. This process will subsequently be formed as a stamp.
In the second year, the grapevine develops two shoots, from which the strongest is selected to form the trunk. The other will be as a reserve. In autumn, the main vine is pruned to 2-3 buds. It is enough to leave 2 buds on the reserve trunk. We cut off all other stepsons.
In the third year, the desired stamp height is formed. A three-year-old trunk is cut so that two branches remain on the top. All other shoots are removed. 2 eyes are left on the upper processes. At the level of these vines, a wire is stretched, to which branches will later be tied for fruiting.
In the fourth year, the crown begins to form. The shoots are pruned so as to obtain a distance between them of about 20 cm. If you get the right crown, the yield will be high.
In the fifth year, cuts are made on all branches so that there are 2-3 buds everywhere.
In the sixth year, 6–7 buds are retained on each fruit-bearing shoots, and 2 buds on replacement branches.

After the sixth year of life, the resulting dimensions and shape of the crown are simply maintained.

Formation of grapes in the second year

After a year of growing season, the formation of a grape bush begins in the spring. As soon as warming comes to the region and the young plant becomes hot, the shelter is removed. The fruit link is tied to a stretched wire so that each fruit arrow goes in a certain direction. Most often, gardeners prefer to branch in three directions: left, right, up.

It is quite difficult for a young plant to grow upward, so fruit shoots and replacement knots are tied with a slight horizontal tilt.

After harvesting, the grapes are not touched until late autumn, approximately October or November. A favorable month and day are determined by the climate of the region and weather conditions in order to have time to carry out the sheltering of the crop. The formed sleeve is cut off, leaving 2-3 shoots. Next, move on to the remaining vines. Pruning is done almost to zero, leaving no more than 3 replacement buds or knots. Vertical vines are shortened less progressively, leaving 4 to 6 buds for next year. Upon completion of agricultural technology, the crop is tilted to the ground and fixed with trellises, after 10-14 days it is covered and left alone until next year.

Carrying out work

Gardeners use several methods to process plants. The choice of the appropriate one depends on the age of the bush. Every year after the leaves fall, you need to do autumn pruning of grapes for the winter. In the first year after planting, it is enough to remove the ripening vine. After the cold months, new shoots with buds will appear at the cutting site.

The two-year-old plant already has several shoots. You can leave two or three, but cut off two eyes on each. In the third year, significantly more lateral branches appear. The vine is fully formed. Therefore, more careful processing will be required. Four buds must be cut off on each shoot. Otherwise, the plant will produce small fruits in insignificant quantities.

Young bush

In order for pruning grapes to produce results in the form of fruits, several rules must be followed. Only unnecessary, damaged and dry branches are removed. You cannot remove all the sprouts in a row, this will lead to poor growth and drying out of the bush. They use only sharply sharpened tools that will not damage the vine.

The procedure is carried out with precise movements; it is better to practice on other plants in advance. After pruning, the gardener must create support for the grapes. You should also remove all the inflorescences that formed over the summer. Use one of two trimming options. At first, it is recommended to properly prune the grapes in the fall according to the following scheme:

1st year - only one shoot develops;
on the second, the lateral process is released;
in spring the plant develops another branch from the central trunk;
on a three-year-old bush, all shoots are cut off from a developed shoot, except for the central one;
4th - two short branches and one fruiting arrow remain;
on the fifth, two branches with berries appear.

According to the second option, in the first year a vine is planted and two shoots are grown from it. A two-year-old plant produces two more sprouts; next spring they are cut back to four buds each. They germinate again in the fall, and in the fifth year only two fruiting shoots and short branches remain.

The work is carried out in several stages. First, you need to clear the bush of dry inflorescences and leaves. Then they wait for complete leaf fall, after which all useful substances go into the central trunk. After this, the thickest branches are cut off, forming replacement knots. At the second stage, every second sprout is removed, leaving three eyes on them. The replacement branch is shortened so that it has 2 buds. That is, the bush is reduced by almost half.

old grapes

It is correct to prune old grapes in the fall according to the same scheme as a young plant. First, remove all dry leaves, inflorescences and shoots, and clean the soil in those places where new branches are formed. To rejuvenate an old plant, a fan shape is suitable. In accordance with it, all neglected sprouts that violate the selected design are cut off.

All removed branches are removed from the soil and destroyed. If they remain under the bush for the winter, it can rot. The work is carried out in stages:

cut off all thick branches to three buds;
remove every second trunk up to the fifth eye;
overdried vines are removed completely;
the rotten branch must be removed to the very root;
the finished bush is secured with wires and ropes;
When sprouts accumulate, cut off every third one to several buds.

Formation of grapes in the third year

Pruning in the autumn makes spring farming easier. Already formed fruit links do not require repeated pruning. It is enough to straighten the head with the cut sleeve in different directions and tie it up to get a properly formed plant emerging from hibernation.

Excessively shortened vines, where no more than two buds or replacement knots remain, must be tied vertically so that active growth cannot affect the side branches. The remaining fruit links are inclined or completely horizontal to facilitate summer farming and pruning in the fall in the future.

To form a maximum of high-quality brushes, chasing in early August is recommended. Shortening by 2 palms will increase fruiting, sweetness of berries and even the weight of the crop.

Important!
To prevent the formation of branches and the continuation of vines, pruning should not be carried out ahead of time. Minting is prohibited before the deadline, i.e. the month of August. If the recommendations are not followed, the gardener may lose part of the harvest due to improper distribution of juice, aimed not at the formation of berries, but new branches.

In autumn, pruning grapes is allowed when the air temperature drops. October and November remain the most suitable months for the formation of a grape bush. Pruning is carried out alternately, first cutting off all fruit-bearing shoots tied vertically with a small section of the sleeve. Most often, they adhere to the same scheme as in the second year of the growing season. The most important thing is not to overdo it, cutting the vines down to make it easier to lay them down for the winter and straighten them out in the spring months.

Useful recommendation!
Quite often, poor shelter exposes the vines to frostbite. To avoid this, you should leave a large number of buds in case of additional supply for critical pruning in early spring. It is allowed to leave from 7 to 9 buds.

In the following: the fourth, fifth, sixth and seventh years of grape germination, pruning is performed identically in the autumn months, determining the most favorable period according to the region of crop germination and the Lunar calendar presented for 2020 or 2021.

Methods in step-by-step description

How to prune grapes step by step. Methods for forming a bush are usually divided into standard and non-standard. The former are usually used for non-covering (frost-resistant) varieties, the latter for covering varieties.

How to properly prune cover grapes after winter. Proper spring pruning involves using the standardless fan method. Spring pruning should be done when the winter shelter has been removed. After opening the grapes, it is necessary to inspect the branches for diseases and damage and only then begin pruning.

When and how to prune grapes correctly in the fall: pruning patterns for beginners. Pruning grapes in autumn: clear instructions for beginners

How to prune uncovered grapes after winter in March. After a thorough inspection of the overwintered bush, frost-damaged, broken branches and those affected by diseases or pests are cut off using the standard method.

Fan

The method involves the formation of several arms with fruit arrows located on them. There are two types of fans - multi-armed and one-sided.

Video: fan-shaped grapes

Multi-sleeve

The number of sleeves is determined by the crop variety:

3-4 are suitable for plants with slow and medium growth;
6-8 is ideal for varieties with medium to strong growth.

The sleeves are shaped so that they are shorter in the middle of the bush than at the edges.

How to properly prune depending on the age of the plant:

1 year. The first step is to get rid of any lifeless, twisted or damaged vines. Then select 2 or 3 healthy ones and trim the remaining ones.
2nd year If after wintering only 1 vine has survived, it is shortened to the 3rd eye; two - up to 2nd. During the season, at least 3 strong shoots should form: sleeves will be formed from them. They should be tied to a trellis.
3rd year. Shaping depends on the number of its shoots: if there are 2, shorten to 3-4 buds;
3 – form shoulders from two, the third – shorten to 3-4 eyes in order to grow new sleeves on it;
4 – do everything with sleeves, shorten to 3 kidneys.

4 year Similar to the previous period:

highlight new links and shoulders;

to form new sleeves, the vine on top should be removed from the old shoulder;

the remaining branches should be cut off to form fruit shoots;

the skeleton of the bush needs to be tied up.

When and how to prune grapes correctly in the fall: pruning patterns for beginners. Pruning grapes in autumn: clear instructions for beginners

After the leaves appear, it is recommended to remove damaged and dried vines.

Subsequent care consists of removing the remaining branches, removing fruit-bearing vines, forming new fruiting links from replacement knots and pruning excess vines.

Important! If the bush grows slowly, then it is better to begin its formation at the age of three.

Single sided long sleeve

The method is preferable for vigorous and medium-sized crop varieties and assumes that the bush has several long (up to 150 cm) branched sleeves directed in one direction. The shape of the plant is given by wire: it is stretched parallel to the ground at several levels: 15 cm, 85 cm, 135 cm and 175 cm.

How to trim correctly:

1 year. After the procedure, 2 vines should remain, which are subsequently tied to the first level of wire.
2nd year Vines whose height is: more than 0.7 m are cut to 1 m and fixed on the first two levels at an angle of 20°;
less than 0.7 m - cut off at a place whose thickness is more than 5 mm, tied to the bottom wire and cleared of buds.
At the same time, the formation of a Z-shaped base of the bush begins: the lower wire is stretched for one growing season, and in the fall it rises to a higher level. After swelling, the eyes (with the exception of the upper pair) are cleaned.

3rd year. Correct bush formation:

on shoulders longer than 0.7 m leave 3 arrows, shorter - 2;

annual shoots - processing and cleaning according to the algorithm of the 2nd year;

two-year-olds - tied to the 2nd level, cut off the buds from them until they reach the 3rd level.

After the leaves appear, get rid of damaged branches.

4 year Form new fruiting links, then remove the fruiting arrows and form new ones instead. The sleeves should be cut close to the main branch of the top.

When and how to prune grapes correctly in the fall: pruning patterns for beginners. Pruning grapes in autumn: clear instructions for beginners

Stambovaya

The standard formation is interesting when a tall standard is formed, 1.2-1.5 m long. The crown of a grape bush can be located in the form of a tent, which is pruned in the summer - such plants look very impressive on plantations and in landscape design. In addition, you can get up to 25-30 kg of harvest from them.

One or two sleeves can extend from the formed trunk in different directions of the trellis (perennial wood). The length of the sleeves corresponds to the growth strength of the bush and the capabilities of the trellis: from 80 cm to 1.4-1.5 m. The vines are cut on the sleeves so that 4-6 fruit links are formed.

When and how to prune grapes correctly in the fall: pruning patterns for beginners. Pruning grapes in autumn: clear instructions for beginners

Forming a long stem for grapes

Long-stem grapes are grown on a powerful single-row trellis (1.5–1.7 m) in one trunk 120–150 cm high, with the optimal trunk width being at least 10 mm. With this formation, 2 to 6 shoulders are laid horizontally on a wire without a garter. 3–4 eyes are formed on the lashes; only 2 buds are left on the replacement knots. The growth on the shoots hangs freely.

When and how to prune grapes correctly in the fall: pruning patterns for beginners. Pruning grapes in autumn: clear instructions for beginners

Grapes on a long stem take up little space and minimize care

The grapes grow on a long trunk, often in the area of uncovered viticulture and look compact.

Guyot

The Guyot formation is the easiest for beginning winegrowers to master. She is standardless. From the base of the bush, one or two fruit links are immediately formed in different directions of the trellis or only on one side (one-armed Guyot).

When and how to prune grapes correctly in the fall: pruning patterns for beginners. Pruning grapes in autumn: clear instructions for beginners

One-armed Guyot

The pruning pattern involves one vine and one replacement branch that come straight from the ground. In this case, the underground shoot will gradually thicken, but only fruit-bearing wood and shoots of the current year remain on the soil surface. In the fall, the fruit-bearing part is removed and in the spring they work with new shoots.

When and how to prune grapes correctly in the fall: pruning patterns for beginners. Pruning grapes in autumn: clear instructions for beginners

Pruning grapes for a gazebo

The formation of a grape bush on an arbor includes a vertical cordon and is only suitable for uncovered varieties. The plant is not only capable of producing an excellent harvest, as with other forms of pruning, but also serves as a decoration for the building (pergola, gazebo, canopy) and the entire site as a whole. The “green cape” of grapes provides good shade and protects from drafts. Support for the shoots can be vertical welded metal rods or arcuate arches. An additional load is held by a wire fastener when the maximum load of the crop is expected (5-7 year old bush).

When and how to prune grapes correctly in the fall: pruning patterns for beginners. Pruning grapes in autumn: clear instructions for beginners

In order to rationally use the planting space without changing the load on the bush, a vertical cordon or a four-armed fan is used. Most often, technical or vigorous frost-resistant varieties are used for arched and arbor planting. Plants are planted along the perimeter of the support walls - one plant in the center (fan) or in the corners on each side (one-sided multi-tiered cordon). Trimming is carried out according to the selected shape.

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When pruning grapes for a gazebo, you can use any shaping method. The main thing is that the grapes should not suffer from frost, then a low standard and cordon shaping are suitable for any variety. Or a fan - for frost-resistant grapes. A standard up to 60–80 cm high and a multi-tiered formation with freely hanging shoots looks very beautiful and modern, even if the grapes grow only on one side of the arbor.

When is the best time to prune grapes in the fall?

Many novice gardeners and gardeners wonder how and when to prune grapes in the fall so as not to harm the plant. After all, even those who grow the crop for the first time know firsthand that loss of juice is a fairly common occurrence during continued warm temperatures. To prevent such a mistake, you should follow the timing of agricultural practices, adhering to favorable days set according to the Lunar calendar.

Despite the annual pruning of the crop, the summer growth of the fruit section does not allow the gardener to reduce the time spent on agricultural technology in the fall. The sleeve is overgrown with vines that require proper adjustment by the end of autumn. There are many pruning schemes. Some options suggest removing branches in the autumn months, others - in the spring. The choice in favor of the best option remains with the summer resident. However, in order to preserve maximum juice, it is worth choosing cold weather, coating the sections after pruning with garden varnish or a similar wound healing agent.

According to breeders, pruning of grapes can be done both in autumn and spring. The choice of the best option depends on the climatic characteristics of the region. The colder the winter, the better it is to remove excess branches before the onset of the winter months. When cultivated in the southern regions, pruning in the fall is not necessary. Many gardeners don’t even bother with shelter if the air temperature does not drop below 2-3 degrees below zero. With the onset of spring, pruning is carried out, immediately tying up the links that are ready for further growing season.

Gardener mistakes

Many young winegrowers want to get excellent fruits, but make certain mistakes, which include:

too gentle pruning;
using blunt cutting tools;
ignoring abundant watering;
refusal to clog cuttings and fertilize with fertilizers;
non-recognition of winter shelter.

Watch a video on how to properly prune grapes in the fall:

Pruning the vine in the fall helps to improve the health of the grapes, increase immunity for a normal exit from winter, improve taste and yield in the next season. Such an important agrotechnical measure cannot be neglected.

What does pruning grapes give, list of advantages:

1) rids the crop of damaged, frostbitten and diseased shoots that are not capable of producing a full harvest with the onset of August;

2) eliminates incorrect formation of branches and growth beyond the boundaries of the garter structure;

3) increases the amount of sugar in each berry;

4) shortens the growing season for the ripening of grapes by 1-2 weeks;

5) increases the volume of the harvest - concerns not only the weight, but also the size of the berries and clusters.

Pruning of grapes is carried out almost annually, excluding the winter months. Pinching, removing additional shoots with pruning shears, is a type of classical pruning necessary for the full formation of a grape bush and fruiting in general.

Care and preparation for winter

After autumn pruning, caring for grapes comes down to the fact that they must be carefully protected from diseases and pests and covered for the winter. In this regard, the vine must be treated with a 5-7% solution of copper sulfate. In addition, you can feed the plant, because after harvesting and removing the shoots, the grapes will be in a depleted state.

In autumn, fertilizing involves the use of only phosphorus and potassium fertilizers. In addition, you can use any suitable organic matter.

When and how to prune grapes correctly in the fall: pruning patterns for beginners. Pruning grapes in autumn: clear instructions for beginners

After removing excess stems, the vine must be covered to avoid damage. The covering procedure should be carried out after frost reaches a temperature of -5 °C. For shelter, you need to take warm and light material that allows air to pass through well. This can be straw or reeds, or you can also use old warm clothes. In some cases, you can bury the vine in the soil.

Important! Common grape varieties can survive air temperatures from -17 to -24 °C. If you cover the shoots too early, they may rot, so you should wait for stable frosts.

Pruning rules, regardless of the time of year

Unfortunately, it is impossible to name a specific pruning time in Russia, Ukraine and Belarus. Even within the same country, regions differ in different climatic features and varying air temperatures not only in autumn, but also in summer. Therefore, it is better to predict the weather yourself, focusing on average recommendations, favorable days suggested by astrologers according to the Lunar calendar and the air temperature established in September, October or November.

It is quite difficult to carry out pruning in a day, having several grape bushes on the plot at once, provided that the crop is grown for the first time. To avoid the mistake of hastening to remove excess buds, you should first carefully inspect the bush for damage. A clear understanding will allow you to decide how short it is necessary to shorten the sleeve and on which links how many buds should be left.

In August, when clusters are actively forming, you should pay close attention to pinching. With its help, it will be possible to achieve an increased harvest volume, excluding the germination of new shoots and improper distribution of juice.

As soon as the temperature drops to zero degrees, you can start pruning in the fall. To remove grape branches, you will need: a hacksaw or pruning shears for trimming tree branches, a disinfectant for equipment, cotton pads, and garden varnish. A cotton pad is moistened in an alcohol solution and used to wipe the blades from germs and bacterial diseases that could remain from contact with other shrubs and trees. After treatment, the vines are cut according to the instructions. The sections are sealed with varnish and left for 24-48 hours until the wounds heal. Afterwards, the bush is tilted to the ground, fixed with metal arches, and only after 2-3 weeks it is wrapped, covering it from frost, wind and precipitation until next spring. To prevent the material from flying off due to a strong gust of wind, place a window pane or a piece of rubber on top.

Established pruning rules that must be followed:

1) complete removal of the sleeve, subject to reaching the age of 5 years;

2) the shoots are pruned to a stump state, calculating the required number of buds for the next year;

3) young and not properly formed branches are not pruned excessively, leaving a sufficient number of buds;

4) after the formation of the young sleeve, the old one is completely cut off;

5) if new shoots are damaged and cannot fully develop by next year, they are pruned, forming a sleeve from old vines;

6) wounds must be sealed with garden pitch or paraffin to prevent loss of juice.

According to the pruning rules, the length of the branches allows you to visually determine at what size to remove, leaving the exact number of buds:

short - no more than 3;
average - from 7 to 10;
long - no more than 15.

Why pruning?

Normal growth and development of the plant depends on the nutrition of the bush. And pruning regulates the distribution of nutrients throughout the grape bush.

Vertical polarity is when the plant stretches upward toward the light. All nutrients are consumed in this growth process. The lower part of the grapes, at the same time, suffers from their lack.

To get a harvest from the upper and lower branches, you need to distribute the supply of nutrients throughout the plant. After pruning, the polarity changes, and the bush begins to develop on all branches (self-preservation instinct).

Purpose of pruning:

increase harvest;
make the berries better quality and larger;
form new fruiting branches;
rejuvenate and improve the health of the plant;
remove old unnecessary branches for better penetration of sunlight and heat transfer.

Timing for pruning grapes by region

The heat-loving crop reacts poorly not only to overwatering, but also to frost. According to the rules of cultivation, work on covering and preparing the crop for winter must be carried out no later than when the temperature drops to 4-6 degrees below zero.

It is best to prune when daytime temperatures have not reached below zero. Low temperatures make the bush fragile, easily susceptible to damage when placed on the ground. To avoid a common mistake made by beginners, it is recommended to remove the excess part of the vine and install it no later than October - November, while the temperature remains cool, but not frosty.

In vineyards where berries are grown for industrial purposes, the bushes are pruned twice in the autumn. The first - in mid-September, the second - not earlier than the temperature drops to 2-3 degrees Celsius.

Approximate periods for cutting grapes in the fall may vary. The climatic features of the germination region can deviate the timing, both forward and backward, depending on the cyclone. If the weather continues to be warm in the southern regions, pruning and covering for the winter is absolutely not necessary. The temperate climate allows you to carry out agricultural practices until the onset of spring.

Approximate dates for pruning grapes in the fall:

in central Russia, agricultural technology is recommended no earlier than the temperature drops to 3-4 degrees Celsius. The pruning process is allowed down to minus temperatures of 1-2 degrees. The most important thing is to take care of the equipment in advance, having time to calculate the time from felling to the ground to the shelter. The work must be completed before severe frost comes to the region instead of cool air;
in Moscow, Moscow region, Moscow, Ryazan and Yaroslavl regions, pruning is carried out no earlier than November. Depending on the cyclone, agricultural technology may deviate by 7-14 days;
in the Leningrad region - the climate is not stable and cooling comes almost immediately as soon as summer ends. In order not to be late with the closing of the season, it is recommended to perform pruning almost immediately at the beginning of October;
In the Urals and Siberia, growing grapes is possible both in open ground and in a greenhouse. The most important thing is to take care of creating a shelter in time by wrapping the bush in a warm cloth after pruning by the beginning of October. If possible, in addition to felt, you should use window vents or old car mats. With their help, the fabric will not fly apart, remaining intact on the grape bush twisted into a bag;
in the Krasnodar Territory (Kuban), the Caucasus and the Crimean Peninsula, it is allowed to leave grapes without pruning and covering in winter. Most regions where the air temperature does not drop below 3-5 degrees below zero allow the heat-loving crop to survive, causing a minimum of hassle in closing the fruit season;
in Ukraine and Belarus, pruning is carried out until mid-October, as in the central regions of Russia: Voronezh, Lipetsk, Belgorod and Rostov.

Before planning the exact date for pruning the branches, it is worth studying the forecast of the hydrometeorological center and determining the favorable days established according to the Lunar calendar. The information will help you compare your free time with the best periods.

Formation of a grape bush fan: what is it

If the grape variety requires shelter, use the multi-arm fan formation method. After this, the plant is fully illuminated and well ventilated.

When formed in this way, the sleeves are kept short. They are all on the same plane at different angles. Thanks to this, the vines can be easily removed to cover them for the winter. Forming a bush like a fan allows you to rejuvenate the plant and the yield does not decrease.

In one vineyard, 2-8 separate branches are formed. Their number depends on what type of trellis is used and what the feeding area is. In the soil there is the base of the sleeve, on which dormant buds are located. If the plant is damaged, it can quickly recover with their help in a short time.

Trimming dates according to the Lunar calendar

Most gardeners and gardeners are increasingly listening to the recommendations of the Lunar calendar. Favorable phases of the Moon in combination with fertile constellations make it possible not only to grow fruit crops, but also to carry out care and agricultural practices for perennial plants, trees and shrubs. So grapes remain on the list of crops, the care of which is approached with the utmost attention. Summer residents choose days that fall on the 3rd and 4th phases of the celestial body. The waning moon allows you to redirect sap distribution to the root system, avoiding additional loss of sap.

Important!
Do not perform pruning with blunt tools that can damage the branches. It is also not recommended to carry out agricultural practices during periods of precipitation: rain, wet snow or hail.

After pruning and laying the grapes on the ground, it is recommended to loosen the soil so that air can easily flow to the roots, preventing the lower and upper layers of the soil from freezing completely.

The most favorable days for pruning grapes in the fall in 2020:

in September - 1, 6 and 7, 15 and 16, from 27 to 30;

in October - from 2 to 5, 8, 12 and 13, 25, from 29 to 31;

in November - 4 and 5, 9 and 10, from 25 to 28.

Prohibited periods and unfavorable days for pruning and covering:

in September - 2 and 9, 26;
in October - 1 and 9, 26;
in November - 1 and 7, 23.

How to form grapes: a scheme for pruning young bushes in the fall of 1, 2, 3 years

Let's take a closer look at how to properly form and prune grapes every autumn for 3 years after planting.

Remember! The goal of your pruning is to form 4-5 sleeves with fruit links by the 3rd year.

Pruning 1st year grapes

You planted a grape seedling in the spring , and now the time has come for the first formative pruning.

Pruning grapes in the fall of the 1st year is carried out as follows: you shorten your only shoot by 3-4 eyes. If you had a seedling with two shoots, then the pruning should be done symmetrically, but leaving 2-3 eyes.

Opinion! Some particularly scrupulous winegrowers believe that while the bushes are young, then in the 1st and 2nd year in the fall only preliminary pruning should be done (that is, in the first year you need to leave 6-10 buds), and the next year in early spring - the final pruning (up to 3 -4 eyes). The fact is that if you immediately cut it too short, then in winter, due to its youth and insufficient frost resistance, the vine may completely freeze.

Pruning 2nd year grapes

If you did everything correctly in the fall of last year, then in the fall of this year you already have 4-5 powerful shoots (future sleeves). In this case, it is better to leave exactly 4 shoots, and the weakest one or growing in an inconvenient direction should be cut out.

Important! The bush should not look like a fan of 6-8 short shoots; there should be 4-5 strong and long shoots left on it. So don't forget to do your summer minting.

Pruning grapes in the fall of the 2nd year is carried out as follows: you shorten each of the shoots by 3-4 eyes, which is necessary (if it is not clear, then see the paragraph “pruning rules” ) so that each shoot can be normally tied to the bottom wire of the trellis, that is, to be located along it and not to go beyond its limits.

The next video shows preliminary pruning of grapes in the fall of the second year (that is, the vine is left with a large margin, not 3-4 eyes, but 2 times more, that is, 6-8).

Advice! There is no such thing as a surplus of vines, because in the spring you can always finish what you started and get rid of what is not needed.

Mature grapes

When and how to prune grapes correctly in the fall: pruning patterns for beginners. Pruning grapes in autumn: clear instructions for beginners

Typically, an adult bush has 4–5 sleeves. It is necessary to trim each sleeve separately. First, all unnecessary weak shoots and fruit-bearing vines from the past year are removed. Of all the shoots, 2 strong ones are left, and 1 for a replacement knot (for this, the lower shoot is cut into 3 buds). On the 2 remaining shoots, 6–10 eyes are kept, the excess part is removed.

If there are only 2 shoots on the sleeve, then they should be left until spring. If both survive, then the lower one can be cut off into a replacement branch, and the upper one can be left for fruiting.

The same procedure is done with the remaining sleeves.

How to prune grapes in autumn, step-by-step instructions + photos

After studying the structure of the bush and the terms for the formation of new vines, you should carefully consider pruning patterns. Today, quite a few schemes and step-by-step instructions have been proposed, including various techniques. Below are some illustrative photo examples that have received a lot of positive feedback on forums and social networking groups dedicated to summer cottages and vegetable gardens.

Terms for pruning a bush by a winegrower:

eye - a small gap where there are from 2 to 5 fruit buds;
sleeve - the main branch from which the vines branch. The part is determined by the perennial growth of wood;
shoot - long vine;
replacement knot - a miniature fruit arrow that is part of the link;
fruiting link - a unifying term for shoots and knots.

Pruning rules

It is important to know what the harvest produces - a long vine, also known as a fruit arrow. And the growth of a bush is a replacement twig, also known as a short branch.

When pruning the vine, you need to leave a “stump”, about 3 cm. If you remove more, the branch may dry out in this place. Remove immature vines to the woody part.

Make sanitary pruning: destroy diseased and bad shoots. Young pagons for further fruiting leave those closer to the center. They need to get rid of stepchildren. All fruit-bearing vines from which the harvest has already been harvested should be pruned.

General rules for autumn pruning:

upward, the bud located in the internode should look upward. There the pruning is done;
the cuts must be smooth, without breaks or torn out parts of the bark;
sharp pruning shears;
the pruner is positioned perpendicular to the shoot;
thick branches are sawed off with a file;
cuts are made towards the inside of the plant.

How many eyes should I cut?

Depending on the method of formation of the vineyard, the number of buds varies.

Methods used:

a short pruning method that involves destroying most of the vine. A maximum of four buds remain on the fruiting arrow;
middle method - after removing the excess, the branch has up to ten eyes;
long method - about ten eyes are left;
mixed method - both long and short methods are used simultaneously. The branches for replacement are removed for three eyes, the fruit ones remain untouched. This creates a loop. When the fruits are collected, everything is removed. A young fruitful pagon grows in that place.

Care and pruning of old grapes, recommendations

Any grape requires care, both young and mature over the years. Old grape bushes are pruned identically, without requiring additional time and effort for agricultural practices. If pruning is done in the fall, in the spring the gardener will have to inspect the crop for damage, tie it up and fertilize it in order to open the growing season on time.

Pruning is carried out based on weather conditions and timing in the cultivation regions. Climatic features of the regions of Russia, Ukraine and Belarus may deviate by 2-4 weeks forward or backward.

Shortening of the vine is carried out according to one of the schemes proposed above. Most often, most of the eyes are removed, leaving up to 10-15 buds on each branch. If the sleeve is old, it is cut off completely, giving way to young, recently formed vegetation.

Sheltering the crop is not done immediately, first tilting the plant towards the ground. And only after 2-4 weeks, the bush is wrapped in a bag, tied and covered with a warm cloth. The volume of material varies depending on the temperature in winter.

At the end of the cold season, approximately from mid-spring, as soon as the frosts have receded, the grapes are opened and tied up using pieces of nylon tights or rags so that the vine cannot be damaged by the metal wire stretched to hold future berry clusters.

Repeated pruning is carried out no earlier than September. To obtain a large volume of harvest, use the pinching method in early August. The method affects the speedy fruiting.

Having learned for sure when the grapes are pruned in the fall, the summer resident will not be able to miss the right moment of agricultural technology. Recommendations and advice will allow you to get a good harvest next year, eliminating pruning in the spring.

List of tools for trimming:

pruning shears, garden shears, sharp knife or scalpel;
means for disinfecting the pruning object;
cotton gloves;
garden var;
metal arcs for tilting the crop to the ground.

Pre-winter pruning

To care for grape crops in the country, pre-winter pruning is used, consisting of several stages:

pruning diseased, dry, infected branches;
shortening the vine of the first year, in which everything that was above 6-8 buds is removed;
removing all young shoots on the old vine that are above 60 cm;
cutting short, lower shoots, leaving three eyes, so that replacement knots are obtained;
removal of the upper 6 buds;
treating cuts with garden varnish;
burning the trimmed residues.

Standardless and standard pruning of grapes, diagram in the photo

Option #1

Option No. 2

Pruning of grapes in the fall takes place before the bush is covered before winter, but after the introduction of complementary foods. Organic fertilizers will return the necessary substances to the crop for re-vegetation and full development in the spring and summer. Upon completion of the shortening of the shoots, the bush bends to the ground, fixed with metal arches for 2-3 weeks. After time has passed, they move to shelter. The choice of a favorable day for carrying out agricultural technology is determined by the climatic characteristics of the region, the Lunar calendar and the cyclone.

The first year of grape life

After planting, the plant gains strength in the first year, and 1 or 2 shoots are formed on the bush. The length of each depends on the temperature conditions during the spring-summer period, but most often it reaches 1 meter. If all growing rules are followed, the plant will be well developed.

Pruning in the fall, after the first year, allows you to remove only that part of the vine that has not developed for various reasons. It is carried out closer to the root. Other operations should be postponed until the spring.

Please note! If during the first year of life the plant does not ripen, 3 or fewer shoots appear on it, then in this case they are not removed. Such a plant should not be pruned, you can simply shorten it and leave at least 8 buds.. https://www.youtube.com/embed/jWOCigrCVLo

Proper care of grapes will help you grow a healthy plant that will delight you with the quantity of fruits and their taste. There is nothing complicated in this process, so you just need to know the rules of care.

Pruning for rejuvenation

Rejuvenation of the grapevine is carried out using the method of renewal of sleeves and complete rejuvenation of the grape bush. In the first case, you first need to check whether the vine is alive. At the base of the sleeve you need to cut the bark and see: if the fibers are alive, then the plant can be revived. It is necessary to remove dry shoots and cut the sleeve to 2-3 buds from the base. Thus, “restoration stumps” are created.

If a grape trunk is damaged by disease or pests, it needs to be uprooted; such a bush cannot be saved. The rejuvenation procedure should be carried out in the spring so that new growth will grow in the summer. Leave a couple of strong vines from it, and prune them into 3 eyes in the fall. To completely rejuvenate the bush, you need to cut off the entire ground part and clear the ground to a depth of 30 cm around the trunk. Make several cuts on it. Cover the cut with damp soil. The harvest from the rejuvenated vineyard will be in a couple of years.

There is another way to renew the grapes. It is necessary to make layering from the bush. It is necessary to bury a mature vine in the ground to a depth of 40 cm, extending the branch in length. All the buds need to be removed from it. Leave the vine with 2 buds on the surface. New pagons will appear by next summer.

Bush restoration

If the bush has been looked after from the first year of life, subsequently solving the question of how to properly prune grapes for the winter does not cause any difficulties. The case is different when it comes to restoring a neglected vineyard.

In this case, the action plan looks like this:

Throughout the growing season, starting in spring, perennial wood is cleared of green shoots.
As a rule, a neglected bush does not have a single perennial vine. To begin its formation according to the chosen scheme, it is necessary to lay fruit links on each of the perennial shoots, which consist of a fruit-bearing vine and a replacement knot.
At the beginning of September, unnecessary green shoots are removed from the surface of perennial wood. The green shoots at the top of the sleeves are minted: 10-15% of the length of each shoot is removed. The side shoots, the stepchildren, are also shortened, leaving 2-3 leaves on them.
In October, when the leaves fall, you can begin to form the fruit unit. At the top of the sleeve, two strong shoots are selected. We cut one into 2-3 eyes (the third is a spare) - this is the future replacement knot. We cut off the second shoot, preferably located on the opposite side of the vine, leaving a little more eyes - this is a fruiting vine.

The number of eyes on a fruiting arrow depends on the strength of shoot growth and its development. The last criterion is determined by the diameter of the stem. The thickness of the shoot reaches on average from 5 to 12 mm. The ratio of diameter and number of eyes is as follows: 5 mm – 5, 6 mm – 5-6, 7 mm – 7-8, 8 mm – 8-9, 9 mm – 9-11, 10 mm – 11-13, 11 mm – 12-14, 12 mm – 13-15. In this case, 2-3 eyes near the base of the shoot, as a rule, are sterile.

The number of eyes also depends on the standard size of one bunch, characteristic of a particular variety. The rule applies here: if one bunch weighs more than 0.5 kg, the minimum number of eyes is left, less than 0.5 kg - the maximum.

How to prune grape bushes correctly for beginners

Pruning grapes is a responsible, but mandatory task. Properly formed bushes are characterized by increased productivity, varietal characteristics of fruits and the absence of diseases. Harvesting from trimmed plants is much easier.

Preparation for pruning

Preparation for pruning is considered to be the preliminary stage of the event. It includes the following manipulations:

removal of weak, diseased shoots - so-called sanitary pruning followed by burning of waste;
shortening young shoots - pinching by 10...15% of the entire length. Lateral growths are shortened to 2…3 leaves;
removing from old shoots all useless growths located below 0.5 m from ground level.

To carry out pruning, you must use a sharp, clean pruning shears. If the vineyard consists of several bushes, then when moving from plant to plant it is necessary to treat the cutting tool with a disinfectant solution.

Pruning an old bush

According to most winegrowers, a grape bush that is more than 10 years old is considered old. If for some reason such a plant turns out to be unkempt and overgrown with vines that produce an unsightly harvest or nothing at all, then the situation can be corrected through proper autumn pruning.

First you need to carefully examine the bush and evaluate its weak points. You can assess the root system by paying attention to the number of lower growths: if there are many, then the roots are well developed. First, the sleeves are completely cut out, on which there is not a single strong and full-fledged vine.

Next, the remaining grapes are assessed, after which all weak vines are removed. All stems that, at a fairly decent length, produce less than 7 buds are subject to cutting.

After removing all the weak areas of the grape bush, depending on the size of the remaining part, they begin to form it: leaving one lower vine and 1...2 on the upper level. The main rule of formation is to leave no more than 30 buds on the plant.

If such cleaning does not bring visible results, and next season the harvest will still be the same unsightly, it means that this is a varietal feature, and the bush can be removed as unnecessary.

Pruning a young bush

Scheme for pruning a young bush
In some warm regions of the country, the main autumn pruning of grapes is carried out already in the first year of the crop’s life. If there are several different varieties in the vineyard, then the most winter-hardy bushes are processed first. Then they begin to form representatives who cannot boast of frost resistance.

For young growth, mainly short pruning is carried out, in which up to 4 buds are left on the vine. It is aimed at stimulating the regrowth of strong branches that make up the skeleton of the bush. Medium shaping, leaving up to 10 buds on the vine, is carried out to form fruit shoots.

Depending on whether the grapes will be covered for the winter, the type of their formation is chosen: for unsheltered, standard forming is preferable, for covered ones - fan-shaped.

Important rules for pruning grapes for the winter in central Russia

Its rules were developed long ago by winegrowers and do not depend on the location of the vineyard.

In order for the cut on the branches to be absolutely smooth, the tool must be very well sharpened.
It is convenient to trim branches thinner than 1.5 centimeters with pruning shears. For thicker ones, a lopper or a garden saw or a hacksaw can handle it. It is known from the practice of gardeners that the cleanest cut is produced by a hacksaw.
It is probably unnecessary to say that all tools need to be disinfected so as not to transmit a possible disease from bush to bush.
A cut made in one motion is always the smoothest.
It must be carried out so that it is perpendicular to the trunk, in this case the wound area is the smallest.
When cutting a branch, never make a cut directly behind the eye; there should always be a stump at least a centimeter high.
The most important rule for pruning a bush: all cuts look in one direction, preferably outward from the bush. If this is not observed, the so-called horn cut will occur, when sap flow in the shoot is disrupted. The lifespan of such a horn is no more than 4 years; it will have to be replaced.
The purpose of pruning is to form 1 or several fruit links on the sleeve, as the method of formation suggests. They consist of one replacement knot; it is cut short, leaving 2 to 4 buds on it, and one or more fruit shoots. The number of buds left on them is dictated by the grape variety, usually from 6 to 12.
After wintering, as a rule, up to 20, and sometimes up to 30% of the eyes do not awaken. Shoots growing from the eyes located at the base of the arrows are most often sterile; they are removed in the spring. Taking these numbers into account, the vine to be pruned should always have a supply of eyes. In practice, twice as many buds are left for wintering as there were strong fruit vines. All excess is removed in the spring.
Winegrowers adhere to this rule: the number of eyes is directly dependent on the thickness of the vine. On the thick one there are more of them.

When pruning grapes, you need to remember that all damage to any of its parts heals very slowly, so the bush must be spared.

Types of pruning

Methods of pruning grapes differ in how many eyes the vine is shortened. Any given grape variety requires some variation in pruning procedures. Each pruning method involves leaving a certain number of eyes.

Grapes are pruned using the following methods:

Short. It involves cutting out most of the shoots. As a result, only 2-4 eyes remain on the fruit shoot. Most often, wine grape varieties are pruned this way.
Average. With this method, 6-10 eyes remain on each shoot after the procedure. Pruning is widely practiced in vineyards where table grape varieties are grown.
Long. The procedure involves leaving more than 8-10 eyes on the shoot. This is how Asian grape varieties are pruned.
Mixed (according to Guyot). Incorporates ideas typical for short and long pruning. Shoots are cut for replacement (for 3 eyes). In addition, fruit shoots are left so that they can be used for another harvest next year. Using this method, a loop is obtained - a fruit vine, which is cut off after fruiting. Instead of the cut vine, a new fruitful shoot is grown from the replacement knot.

Care after pruning

After pruning, all branches and leaves are raked under the bushes and burned.

Grape bushes are covered after the soil freezes. In this case, the plants will undergo cold hardening.

Early covering of the bush leads to damping off, so you need to cover the grapes no earlier than the air temperature drops to -6 degrees.

For the winter, the sleeves and shoots of the bush are tied together and laid in a trench, which is covered with spruce branches, boards, agrofibre and film. The shelter should not be completely sealed, otherwise it will harm the bush or even destroy it. Several holes are made in the film to allow air to pass inside.

If the vines are not laid in a trench, a layer of spruce branches, foam plastic or plywood is laid out on the ground underneath them. Then the bush is sprinkled with earth or covered with any covering material.

For more reliable protection from the cold, when snow falls, a half-meter snowdrift is poured onto the bush, which remains until spring.

In early spring, when the snow melts and the ground dries out, the shelter is folded back to free and dry the vines. It is impossible for the process of sap flow in the plant to begin under cover; in this case, the grapes may be blocked and the buds will die.

After the vines dry, they remain pinned to the ground. The bush is covered with lutrasil or spunbond so that it does not suffer from bright sun and spring frosts.

After the last spring frosts have passed, the grapes are opened, the sleeves are secured with paper clips, hooks on the trellis from below parallel to the ground (at a height of 30 centimeters), the vines are positioned so that each does not interfere with the other. After this, the first spring feeding with complex fertilizers is carried out.