Aglaonema - methods of propagation by apical shoots and stem cuttings, video

Aglaonema is a herbaceous plant from the Araceae family. In nature, representatives of this genus are found in Southeast Asia and the Malay Archipelago. Translated from Greek, the name of the culture is translated as aglaia (shine) and nema (stamen). In natural conditions, it prefers humid plains, tropical forests, and river banks.

Aglaonema is a close relative of Dieffenbachia. It differs only in narrower leaves and smaller sizes. Although aglaonema is not yet often seen as a houseplant, it is considered one of the most suitable for hydroponic growing. In addition, it is able to absorb toxic substances that fill the surrounding air, purifying it.

Types and varieties for growing at home

The genus Aglaonem, according to average estimates, consists of 20-50 species. These are herbaceous crops with erect stems. Some varieties have branched stems. The leaf blades are dense and leathery. Their shape can be different - from ovoid to oblong-lanceolate. On the bottom of the leaf, a depressed vein protrudes in the middle. The color of the leaves may vary depending on the variety. Only some types of aglaonema, mainly hybrid ones, are suitable for home cultivation.

Changeable (commutatum)

The plant is about 0.5-0.7 m high and comes from the Philippines. The leaves are green, covered with silver-beige spots. They can reach 30 cm in length and 10 cm in width.

Popular varieties:

• Silver,
• Queen,
• Maria.

Painted (pictum)

The culture comes from the islands of Borneo and Sumatra, about 60 cm high. The stem is branched. It has large elongated leaves in the shape of an ellipse. There are irregular light grayish spots on the surface.

Popular varieties:

• Silver King,
• Pattaya Beauty,
• Treuba.

Hybrid Valentine has pink-green variegated leaves.

Moderate or modest (modestum)

In the wild it grows on the mountain slopes of the tropical forests of Indochina and the Malay Archipelago. The stems are branched, about 40-50 cm high. The leaf blades are oval, pointed towards the apex, and have several protruding veins on the side of the central vein.

Shiny (nitidum)

The plant is about 1 m high, common in Thailand, Sumatra and Kalimantan. The leaves are bright green, about 0.45 m long, with a shiny, glossy surface.

Ribbed (costatum)

Low-growing herbaceous shrub with branched stems at the base. The leaves are ovoid, 20 cm long and 10 cm wide. Their structure is dense, green in color with white spots on the surface.

Curly (roebelinii)

Shrub with strongly branching stems. The leaves are elliptical, about 30 cm long. The surface is silvery-gray.

Today, with the help of selection, more and more new varieties are being developed that have a variety of leaf colors.

Varieties and types of plants with photos

Maria

It is the most shade-tolerant subspecies. It has thick emerald green leaves. Thanks to the leaves, it can grow in offices where there is no natural light. Caring for “Aglaonema Maria” at home does not require special treatment.

Changeable

Latin name: Aglaonema commutatum. It is a bushy plant. Has straight branches. The leaves are on elongated petioles. Leaves are lanceolate or elliptical. They reach 25-35 cm in length and 6-11 cm in width.

Butterfly

Latin name: Aglaonema Butterfly. It has emerald leaves with small pink spots. The veins of the leaf blade are a bright blood color. As they grow, the leaves become saturated with color. Grows well in warm, bright rooms. Does not tolerate direct sun exposure. Loves frequent watering and warm showers.

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Red

Belongs to the hybrid subspecies. Grows to medium size. Endowed with burgundy, crimson or blood leaves with numerous multi-colored strokes. Grows mainly in Taiwan. Common on flower farms. Does not tolerate transportation well.

Crete

Hybrid of the “Red” subspecies. The crown of the flower differs from other subspecies in its magnificent variety of shades. Almost every color of the rainbow is present. On the plant you can see emerald, amber, pink, burgundy shades. There are variations with bright bloody leaves.

Basically, this coloring is present only in young specimens. The petioles are pale, almost transparent. The subspecies loves bright natural light. With a lack of light, it may lose its decorative effect. Under such conditions, the leaves cease to be shiny and begin to fade.

Silver Bay

The largest subspecies. It can reach more than 1 meter in height. The leaves reach more than 30 cm in length. They have an elongated shape, pointed towards the top. In the middle of the leaf there is a silvery spot with jagged edges. The same smaller strokes are found on the other edges of the leaf.

Young specimens have a light emerald tint of leaves. As they grow, they begin to darken. The plant has a straight stem of an emerald hue. Due to the dense foliage it is usually not visible. As the trunk matures, it becomes bare at the bottom.

Large branches grow from the root system. Thanks to this, this subspecies can maintain bushiness and lushness for a long time. Even adult specimens retain their decorative properties. A distinctive feature is cold resistance. The subspecies can grow in drafts and sudden temperature changes.

Modest

Latin name: Aglaonema modestus. The leaves are emerald green, elongated, pointed at the top. They reach 18-22 cm in length and 8-10 cm in width. It has pronounced veins on the leaf plate. Belongs to the shade-tolerant subspecies. It reaches a height of no more than 45-55 cm.

Examples of aglaonema varieties: description and reviews

On the window sills of Russian apartments you can often find species of aglaonema - oblong-leaved (A. marantifolium), modest (A. modestum), ribbed (A. costatum), etc. However, flower growers who are lucky enough to appreciate all the advantages of these plants inevitably strive to replenish their home collections with varietal specimens.

It is almost impossible to select the best among the aglaonema varieties. Beautiful leaf color is characteristic of all cultivars, and their cost depends not so much on the effectiveness, but on the prevalence of a particular variety:

Aglaonema collectors in their reviews note the high decorative value of these plants, which is very easy to maintain:

“In my opinion, among decorative leaves, Aglaonema is the leader in unpretentiousness, beauty and diversity. For the fifth year now I have been collecting different varieties - both with long leaves, and with oval ones, and white-green, and red, and pink. I especially like aglaonemas with short petioles, which grow in compact bushes. I can say that if you follow the rules of agricultural technology, it is not difficult to maintain any varieties in a presentable form” (Elena, Moscow).

Aglaonema is an ideal “interior” plant. It grows in any conditions, can be placed in the back of the room, and thanks to the variety of colors it fits well into any design.

Types of aglaonema

This heat-loving crop appeared on the territory of European countries and in many greenhouses back in 1885. At that time, the specialized literature on home floriculture described all the difficulties associated with caring for this plant.

Aglaonema requires high humidity for normal maintenance, so it must be sprayed frequently. Subsequently, breeders developed hybrid varieties that are unpretentious. Below we will get acquainted with some of them.

In its natural habitat, this plant species can be seen in tropical forest belts in Chinese, Bangladeshi or Taiwanese territory. At home, Aglaonema modesta is an evergreen low branching shrub (up to 45-50 cm), which has a lot of bright foliage.

Among many types of crops, this variety is recognized by gardeners as the most unpretentious flower. When grown at home, Aglaonema modesta easily tolerates a dark place indoors. But its other varieties are reluctant to please with the colorful foliage if there is a strong shadow.

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Aglaonema roundish

The decorative low-growing crop is distinguished by dark green foliage with pointed ends. The leaves are heart-shaped. The leaf plate looks unusual due to its pattern. It shows longitudinal veins of whitish stripes. The color of the foliage depends on the variety. The color can be either white or crimson.

Aglaonema ribbed

In the humid climate of southwestern Malaysia, some species of Aglaonema ribbata can still be found in the wild today. Among variegated plants, this species is considered one of the low-growing plants. The leaf blade has an oval or ovoid shape. The length of the leaves is within 15-20 cm, and the width of the plate is up to 8-10 cm.

The leaves of Aglaonema ribbed are a rich green hue. The surface of the leaf is decorated with whitish short stripes. Color of different saturation. Foliage of different sizes. The species has other options. A white streak may be visible in the middle of the flower's foliage.

Aglaonema painted

The branched low shrub is densely strewn with evergreen foliage, this is especially visible in the lower part of the plant. The slightly elongated leaf plate has an elliptical shape. In nature, this species grows in Sumatra or Borneo. The height of the colorful tropical vegetation can sometimes reach heights of up to 55-60 meters.

The color of the foliage is often silver-green or deep blue. On a dense leaf blade, the spotting is almost shapeless. The shades are different: light cream, gray or white. In some cases, painted aglaonema may have not two, but three shades of color.

Aglaonema curly

The type of heat-loving vegetation can be classified as tall shrubs. In the wild, they can grow up to one meter in height. Due to the density of the deciduous part of the trunk, it is almost invisible. The foliage is elliptical in shape and the color is light silver.

Longitudinal short strokes are clearly visible on the leaf plate. They are mainly located closer to the edge and the central vein. The length of the bright foliage plate is up to 25-30 cm. The edge frame may be wavy.

Aglaonema variable

A subtle pattern is visible on the foliage, but not as clearly as that of Aglaonema curly. But the proportionality and dimensions of the deciduous part of these varieties are similar to each other. Today, breeders have managed to develop effective varieties of tropical vegetation, in which the saturation and color of the leaf blades predominate. White spots are clearly visible on the foliage of the indoor plant.

Aglaonema Crete

The variegated variety of aglaonema can grow up to 60-70 cm in height. The stem part of indoor plants is erect. It is covered with foliage with an oblong shape and beautiful colors. The colors of this variety are multifaceted. On one bush you can see leaves of green and red shades.

It is the multicolor that attracts gardeners to this tropical specimen. The length of the leaf blade of Aglaonema Crete is 12-15 cm. The central part of the leaf surface is decorated with a depressed vein, which extends to the other side.

Aglaonema Silver King

The bush is miniature, so it will not take up much space in the room. The exotic crop has silver-green foliage. The central part of the leaf plate is decorated with a pattern of a lighter color.

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Aglaonema Maria Christina

The external outlines and foliage of the vegetation are very similar in structure to the Silver King species. True, this variety of aglaonema has more whitish spots on the leaf blade, which makes the indoor plant look even more unusual.

At home, the evergreen shrub can grow up to 50-60cm in height. The leaf blade is pointed towards the end and has the shape of an ellipse. The length of the leaf surface is within 18-20 cm.

Why do Aglaonema leaves curl?

The twisting of the leaf plate of aglaonema occurs due to a sharp change in temperature and draft. Dry air, which prevails in winter in rooms with centralized heating or air conditioning, has a negative effect on the foliage part of a tropical plant.

Being exposed to ultraviolet rays for a long time, the foliage of aglaonema loses its turgor and its pattern. When curled, the leaf blade may become covered with brown spots along the edges. This is a consequence of burns.

Leaves may curl or turn pale if there are insufficient micronutrients in the soil. In this case, it is recommended to prepare new soil and a container into which to transplant the indoor plant.

Home care

Aglaonema's natural habitat is the tropics. Therefore, to grow indoors, the plant needs to be provided with warmth, high humidity and other suitable conditions.

Location and lighting

It is best to purchase the crop in the store in spring or summer. During this period, aglaonema tolerates a change of environment more easily and quickly adapts to a new place of residence. It is advisable to choose young seedlings for cultivation.

It is important to immediately determine the place where the flowerpot will stand. Partial shade is preferable for him. The plant is shade-tolerant and does not react well to the scorching sun. But some aglaonemas need diffused light so that their leaves do not lose their decorative effect. To understand exactly how much light a plant needs, you need to focus on the colors of the leaves. If they are dark green, it is better to place the flowerpot in partial shade. Leaves with variegated colors require more light.

Choosing a flowerpot

The container for planting the crop must match its size. It is recommended to take a flowerpot that will be a little cramped for the aglaonema. If there is too much space around, the plant will grow roots. As a result, the crown will develop slowly, and splendor will have to wait a long time.

It is better to give preference to clay and ceramic pots. They have good air permeability and do not retain moisture. Also, such containers are heavier than plastic ones. The flowerpot will not overturn under the weight of the stems.

Soil and drainage

Aglaonema requires soil that can drain moisture and air well. You can buy ready-made substrate for violets or azaleas. If you prepare the mixture yourself, you need to take 2 parts of leaf soil, 1 part each of peat and sand. The crop grows well in hydroponics - growing without soil in a nutrient solution.

There must be drainage at the bottom of the pot (expanded clay, broken brick). It will help avoid stagnation of water in the soil.

Planting and transplanting

Young aglaonemas grow quickly. Therefore, it is recommended to transplant them into a new container once a year, preferably in the spring. Adult specimens need transplants less often - once every 3-4 years. But every year they need to renew the top layer of soil, replacing it with more nutritious soil.

Transplant procedure:

• Pour a 2-3 cm thick layer of drainage into the pot. Fill it halfway with soil.
• Water the plant well and remove it from the old pot.
• Place the aglaonema in the center of the new container, carefully straighten the roots, and shake the soil.
• Fill the pot with soil up to the root neck. Do not let soil get on the sockets.
• Moisten the soil and place the pot in a semi-shaded place or under diffused lighting.

Step-by-step visual video - instructions for transplanting aglaonema:

Temperature

During the active growing season, the plant should be kept at a temperature of +20-25 degrees. In winter it can be lowered to +16..18°C.

Warning! Sudden temperature changes and drafts should not be allowed. Aglaonema can die from this.

Watering and humidity

In the warm season, when active growth is underway, the plant needs to be watered daily. But do not over-moisten the soil to avoid rotting of the root system. In autumn and winter, watering is reduced. The top layer of the substrate must dry out. Use soft warm water +27-30 degrees.

Aglaneoma needs high humidity. To maintain it, in summer the leaves are sprayed daily with a spray bottle. In winter, if the temperature is low, spraying is carried out sparingly. You can increase the humidity by placing the flowerpot on a tray with wet expanded clay or sphagnum. Sometimes you can bathe the plant under a warm shower.

Feeding and fertilizers

The crop needs to be fed from March to October. It is recommended to alternate the use of mineral and organic fertilizers. The frequency of feeding is once every 2 weeks. Compositions with a high nitrogen content are more suitable for the development of green mass. Lime fertilizers are best avoided. In cloudy weather, in addition to applying to the soil, you can use spraying with weak fertilizer solutions.

Good feeding:

• Agricola;
• Fantasy;
• Effecton.

When the autumn cold sets in outside, you should stop feeding and give the plant a rest.

Flowering and dormant period

In indoor conditions, aglaneoma blooms very rarely. This happens in June-August. Inflorescences form in the axils of the leaves. These are cobs wrapped in a petal that resembles a blanket. The cob can be of different shapes and lengths, depending on the type of crop. After flowering, white, red or orange fruits appear, similar to dogwood, which are very poisonous.

In winter, the plant needs rest. All processes slow down. From October to February, you should stop feeding, reduce watering, and move the flowerpot to a cooler place.

Trimming

In spring or early summer it is recommended to rejuvenate the bush. Pruning is carried out when the plant sheds its lower leaves. It is necessary to remove the upper segments and treat the cut areas with activated carbon. This procedure promotes the formation of young shoots. Trimmings can be used to propagate aglaonema.

How to care for Aglaonema

The plant will feel its best if you take proper care.

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Lighting

Bright and variegated species require high-quality lighting, but the crop is afraid of the burning midday sun rays; they leave brown burns on the leaf blades. For variegated species, it is best to organize additional lighting with phytolamps. With this lighting, the leaves will be beautiful, and the pattern will be contrasting and effective. Plants with green leaves grow well in any light.

Temperature

Aglaonema is thermophilic, afraid of drafts, low temperatures and always prefers to grow in warmth. In rooms where the air temperature can drop to +16, it will grow poorly.

Watering and humidity

In tropical conditions and growing on river banks, the plant receives a large amount of moisture. Its wide leaves evaporate moisture well, so the crop needs abundant watering. Do not allow the soil mixture to dry out. The leaves are regularly sprayed and wiped from dust. This flower grows well next to aquariums in rooms with high humidity.

The soil

Aglaonema has thin roots. With poor air permeability and waterlogging, they quickly rot. To grow this crop, soil for decorative leafy indoor plants is suitable, but it is better to add sand and crushed charcoal to it. This way the soil mixture will be looser, lighter, and will allow oxygen to pass through to the roots of the plant.

Transfer

Unlike many other indoor crops, this plant does not like frequent replanting. The fact is that in a spacious pot, Aglaonema will produce fewer leaves and look meager, directing all its forces to the growth and development of roots. Therefore, adult plants can not be disturbed for several years. Aglaonemas no older than three years old are replanted every spring.

Top dressing

Plant growth slows down with the arrival of the first cold weather and decreasing daylight hours. During this period, fertilization is not required. From spring to autumn, water several times a month with the addition of mineral compounds.

Reproduction

To grow a new plant, you can use different propagation methods. The longest one is the seed one. Planting material is sown in containers with moistened soil mixture, a “greenhouse” is created, constantly checked, ventilated, and sprayed. Grown plants can be transplanted into small pots and cups.

It is much easier to divide the bush during transplantation and plant the plots in different pots. To do this, the rhizome is cut into several parts with a sharp instrument so that each part has several petioles with leaves. You can cut off individual petioles without disturbing the plant by replanting. But they take root long and difficult.

Conditions for the aglaonema plant

Aglaonema, as a resident of the tropics, prefers to stay in a warm room. If in summer the air temperature can vary from 21 to 26 °C, then in winter, when growth slows down a little, the plant is kept at 18–20 °C.

It is important that at any time of the year the air does not cool below 12–15 °C, since such temperatures can negatively affect the condition of the plant.

Particularly dangerous:

• draft and cold flow coming from windows or balconies;
• hot dry air from heating appliances.

Aglaonema's love for warmth also worries breeders. Therefore, when obtaining modern varieties and hybrids, special attention is paid to the plant’s ability to tolerate low temperatures. An example of such a variety is Silver Queen, an aglaonema plant with silver-green foliage that has earned an award from the Royal Horticultural Society for its decorativeness and hardiness.

In both winter and summer, aglaonema requires long daylight hours, at least 11–15 hours. By forcing a green pet to grow with a lack of light, you can cause it to become overly elongated, and:

• internodes lengthen;
• the foliage becomes smaller and loses its decorative effect;
• Aglaonema plants absorb moisture and mineral supplements more slowly.

Although aglaonemas are shade-tolerant, variegated plants need diffused light to maintain the brightness and color quality of their leaves. In summer, at midday, pots with aglaonemas are shaded, protected from direct rays, and in winter, artificial lighting is provided if necessary.

Watering plants varies depending on the time of year, air temperature and the condition of the plant. In warm weather, the soil needs to be moistened more abundantly than in winter or late autumn. If the room is cool, then the amount of water is also reduced. At the same time, you should not be guided by the widespread but erroneous opinion about the unconditional love of moisture of all people from the tropics. Aglaonema can more easily tolerate dry soil than constant waterlogging.

For irrigation, you need to take only settled warm water. And the substrate in a pot with aglaonema must be allowed to dry to a depth of 2–4 cm between waterings. Aglaonema responds well to irrigation with water and washing the foliage with warm water. This procedure helps:

• restore the attractiveness of foliage by cleaning it from dust;
• protect the plant from insect pests;
• ensure the respiration of aglaonema;
• increase air humidity.

We must not forget that aglaonema requires regular feeding during the growing season. They are carried out from early spring until October, using compositions for decorative foliage crops.

Reproduction of aglaonema by seeds

Planting aglaonema with seeds is painstaking and difficult work. If you succeed, then only after 3-4 years you will get beautiful, formed plants, and before that they will more closely resemble separately growing leaves. But if your aglaonema yielded a fruit in the form of a berry, then why not try this method of propagation?

1. Wait until the fruit ripens and begins to wrinkle - this indicates that the seed can be used.
2. Take out the seed, peel it from the pulp, rinse well under running water.
3. The fruit must be planted immediately, as it quickly loses its ability to germinate! Mix sand and peat in a 1:1 ratio and plant the seed.
4. Water the planting well and place the container in a warm place.
5. The first shoots should appear quickly. When the plant produces real leaf blades, you will need to plant it in a pot with soil, the mixture for which we discussed above (section “Transplanting”).

Reproduction methods

The culture can be propagated in several ways. Most often they use cuttings or dividing the bush, less often - propagation by seeds.

Cuttings

Cut a cutting from a well-developed stem at a height of 2-3 cm from the ground. Divide it into several parts about 5 cm long, remove the foliage. Deepen the cuttings halfway for rooting in a mixture of peat and sand (1:1). Cover the container with film. Keep at a temperature of +22-26 degrees. The cutting will take root within a few weeks.

You can place the shoot in water, after soaking it in a solution that stimulates root formation. When the cuttings take root, they are transplanted into separate pots in suitable soil. The lateral shoots must be removed.

Dividing the bush

Dividing the bush can be done during plant transplantation:

• Carefully remove the bush from the pot and shake off the soil.
• Remove dry and damaged parts of the root with a clean tool.
• Divide the plant or cut it vertically down through the roots.
• Treat the cut areas with ash.
• Transplant each division into a separate pot and water well.

Seeds

Aglaonema is a self-pollinating plant. You can collect the seeds yourself if you manage to wait for fruiting at home. Before planting, remove the seeds from the fruits, wash them and dry them. Deepen into moistened sphagnum moss by 1.5 cm. Cover the container with film and germinate the seeds at a temperature of +20-26°C. Shoots will appear in 3-4 weeks. Sometimes this happens later. Remove the film from time to time to ventilate and control the humidity of the substrate. After the formation of a leaf rosette, the seedlings can be planted in separate pots with suitable soil.

Aglaonema (Aglaonema) is an ornamental evergreen plant from the Araceae family. Southeast Asia is considered its homeland. It is found naturally in the Philippines, New Guinea, and India. The height of the bush ranges from 25 to 75 cm. The trunk is not noticeable. The flower attracts attention with its leathery green leaves, which have an oblong shape and pointed ends. They clearly show a central light stripe and small patterns in the form of spots and stripes.

Aglaonema grows slowly; the foliage is replenished with 5–6 leaves per year. It blooms rarely, producing an inflorescence - an ear, wrapped in a pale blanket. At home it lives up to 3 years, then it loses its decorative properties and needs updating.

Aglaonema humidifies the air in the room. Reduces the level of toxic substances released by new furniture and gas stoves. Some types of aglaonemas disinfect the air, clearing it of anaerobic bacteria. During a period of intensive growth, a flower releases air ions that cause a charge of vigor and increase resistance to stress.

Despite its tropical origin, aglaonema grows well at home if you follow the basic rules of its cultivation.

Aglaonema is an unpretentious plant, caring for it is easy, but there are some peculiarities in growing aglaonema. All parts of the flower contain toxic substances, oxalic acid, which cause skin burns and irritation of mucous membranes. The juice and berries that appear after the plant blooms cause severe allergies. Therefore, you need to work with aglaonema very carefully, wearing gloves. Make sure that children and animals do not touch the bush.

The aglaonema flower at home develops correctly and feels good if its needs for light, warmth, nutrition and moisture are met.

Planting aglaonema

The high decorative properties of the plant largely depend on proper planting. The quality of planting material (cuttings, seeds, fragment of a bush) is important. If you choose the seed planting option, use only fresh seeds collected from ripe scarlet berries. Planting is carried out in spring and summer.

A fertile, loose, breathable acidic substrate will provide the plant with good nutrition and improve its appearance. Planting aglaonema involves choosing the right place. The flower feels comfortable on a window facing any side except the south: bright sunlight can cause burns to the foliage. Therefore, it needs to be shaded from our scorching sun.

Aglaonema flowering

Aglaonema rarely blooms at home. The beauty of the plant lies in its variegated emerald leaves. Aglaonema flowering is an unattractive phenomenon. From February to November, inconspicuous inflorescences in the form of greenish-yellow cobs, wrapped in a pale blanket, form in the axils of the upper leaves.

There can be 1 - 3 pieces. Depending on the variety, the cobs look like a thick short club or a thin long cylinder. Sometimes gardeners sacrifice inflorescences and cut them off for the sake of new leaves. If you don’t do this, you can wait for the fruits to appear - scarlet (less often white) berries with a single grain inside.

Temperature

To preserve the decorative appearance of the flower, it is important to strictly observe the temperature regime. Aglaonema is a heat-loving plant. Drafts and sudden changes in temperature can destroy it. Although there are varieties that can withstand cold temperatures down to + 10°C, the optimal temperature for a flower is considered to be between 15 – 28°C in summer and 15 – 18°C ​​in winter.

Spraying

The tropics are characterized by high air humidity. To make aglaonema feel comfortable, you need to spray the plant in the summer or wipe the leaves more often. Just don’t allow moisture to accumulate in the rosette of leaves: this can lead to the death of the plant.

In winter, spraying is carried out less frequently, but the flower is placed in a tray with moistened expanded clay or pebbles . During the heating season, the flower is kept away from radiators, air humidifiers are used, or an open container of water is placed next to the aglaonema.

Lighting

Lighting is important for plant growth. Aglaonema is genetically configured to receive a lot of light, but it should not be bright and scorching, but diffused. The scorching summer sun can burn the flower, so windows facing south are dangerous for it. It is best to place green-leaved bushes in partial shade.

Variegated types of aglaonema, on the contrary, love bright sunlight: under its influence the leaves become more beautiful. But a little shading is also beneficial for these species. In winter, additional lighting is installed for them.

Watering aglaonema

The plant is moisture-loving, but stagnation of water is detrimental to it. Watering of aglaonema is carried out in spring and summer, when the top layer of soil dries out.

In winter and when aglaonema is kept in a cool room, this is done less often - about once every 10 days. For irrigation, take clean water, settled in the room.

Pot size

There are no small details in the maintenance of the plant. For proper development, even the size of the pot in which the flower is planted is important. For aglaonema, a low pot of small volume is preferable. The tightness will stimulate the formation of new leaves and strengthen the root system of the bush.

Soil for aglaonema

Breathable, moisture-retaining soil for aglaonema is very important. The flower grows well in acidic, loose soil. These characteristics correspond to the ready-made soil mixture in our store.

Feeding and fertilizer

Feeding and fertilizing with mineral and organic substances is an important component of flower care. Aglaonema is fertilized once every 2 weeks for decorative foliage plants, containing not only the main elements, potassium, phosphorus and nitrogen, but also microelements that prevent alkalization of the soil.

To preserve the decorative appearance of the foliage, foliar feeding is carried out: the leaves are sprayed with diluted liquid fertilizer. It is best to do this after watering in cloudy weather, so as not to accidentally burn the plant. All feeding is carried out from the beginning of March to the beginning of October.

You cannot fertilize in winter, because aglaonema rests at this time.

Aglaonema transplant

Aglaonema is transplanted for the first time a week after purchase. When it adapts a little to home conditions, it is transferred from a temporary pot to a permanent container. Young bushes are replanted once a year, adults - once every 4 years. Replanting aglaonema is necessary when the roots completely entwine the earthen ball. It is always produced in the spring. A new pot is chosen 20 - 30 mm larger than the previous one.

It must have drainage holes and a place to pour a thick layer of drainage, which is necessary so that the water in the pot does not stagnate. The soil is carefully selected, taking into account that aglaonema loves acidic and loose soil. The soil mixture should include turf soil (an adult bush can put more of it), peat, leaf soil, charcoal and perlite (sand).

Rest period

Like most plants, the dormant period of aglaonema falls in winter . At this time, they reduce the amount of watering and stop stimulating growth with fertilizers and fertilizing.

Pruning aglaonema

When aglaonema grows, its trunk becomes exposed. This suggests that the flower needs pruning , with the help of which its rejuvenation is carried out. Cut off the top of the plant with a sharp knife, and dust the cut areas with charcoal powder. The stump is left in the pot.

They continue to take care of it and wait for renewal buds to appear. And the top is rooted in water in which activated carbon is pre-dissolved to avoid souring. Sometimes the top is immediately planted in moist soil. Cover with polyethylene and keep at a temperature of +25°C until rooting.

Homemade aglaonema does not require special care; if properly maintained, it will grow healthy and become a real decoration of the interior.

Reproduction of aglaonema

If the flower trunk begins to branch or become bare, the plant is ready to reproduce. Aglaonema can be propagated in different ways.

Reproduction by dividing the bush

The easiest method.

• Take the aglaonema out of the pot and inspect the root system.
• Fragments with a developed root system are separated.
• They are planted in separate containers.
• Water, cover with film and leave at a temperature of + 23°C for several days for the plant to take root.
• It is periodically watered and sprayed.

Propagation of aglaonema by cuttings

Conducted when the trunk is exposed.

• The apical shoot up to 10 cm long is cut off, the cut is sprinkled with coal powder and dried.
• Then they are immersed 5 cm in wet sand.
• Cover with film and keep for a month at + 25°C until the bush gives roots.
• Water and ventilate periodically.

Growing aglaonema from seeds

Perhaps when the aglaonema self-pollinates. Aglaonema produces scarlet fruits. When they ripen on the bush, the seeds must be removed from the berries, washed and planted in a mixture of peat and sand, taken in equal parts. Pour, cover with film and leave at + 25°C. The first shoots appear quickly. When 2–3 leaves appear, the bushes are planted in separate pots. After 3 years you will get strong plants.

All propagation methods are accessible and simple, but it is important to know that when propagated by seeds, aglaonema loses its varietal characteristics.

Diseases and pests.

If you follow basic care rules and create comfortable conditions, aglaonema will grow strong, and many diseases and pests will bypass it. But sometimes difficulties arise when growing a plant:

• the stem of the aglaonema is rotting - excess moisture (re-root the top);
• gray spots on aglaonema leaves – fungal damage (fungicides are used);
• aglaonema leaves curl and turn black - at low temperatures (move to heat);
• the leaves have become pale - lack of nutrients (feed) or little light (move to a brighter place);
• dry spots on the leaves - excess sun (shade);
• aglaonema grows slowly - a natural process, a slow-growing plant;
• aglaonema does not grow - lack of light (move to a bright place); watering with cold or hard water (use warm, settled water; to soften, add 0.2 g of citric acid per 10 liters of water); spoiled leaves take away the flower’s strength (clean the bush of them in time) ;
• brown tips of leaves – low humidity (spray, place an open container of water nearby);
• dark spots on the leaves - hypothermia or watering with hard cold water (put in a warm place, water with warm, settled water, adding 0.2 g of citric acid per 10 liters of water);
• the lower leaves turn yellow - a natural physiological process (you can renew the flower by rooting the top);
• droplets on the tips of the leaves - release of excess moisture from waterlogging, temperature changes and air humidity;
• yellow or white spots – sunburn (shade);
• dry edges of leaves, their deformation - lack of moisture and humidity (water well and ventilate without creating a draft);
• marsh-colored spots on the leaves - not enough light (put in a brighter place).

If aglaonema grows weak, it can be attacked by pests: aphids, mealybugs, thrips, whiteflies, spider mites. Actara and other drugs, a range of which you can find in our store, will help you get rid of them.

Aglaonema is an exotic ornamental plant, the beauty of which lies not in the original bright flowers characteristic of exotics, but in its unusual leaves. The color of the foliage surprises with the play of green shades with light stripes and spots. Bizarrely located on the leaf plate, they create a special variegated pattern that distinguishes aglaonema from other plants. A guest from the tropical forest is a worthy decoration of a modern interior.

Possible difficulties during cultivation

Most problems in growing aglaonema are associated with violations of flower care recommendations.

Errors in care and their elimination

Diseases and pests of aglaonema

Most often, Aglaonema is parasitized by:

• spider mite;
• thrips;
• mealybug;
• aphid;
• whitefly

The appearance of signs of vital activity of parasites may indicate infection of other flowers. Control measures include regular (according to instructions) treatments with insecticides and removal of the top layer of soil in the pot.

Diseases

Like any living organism, aglaonema can encounter problems leading to death.

The most common diseases of aglaonema:

1. Aglaonema leaves have white or yellow spots

This “change” indicates sunburn. It is necessary to remove the pot with the plant into the shade as quickly as possible and wipe the leaves with a damp cloth, otherwise the aglaonema will dry out completely.

1. Aglaonema leaves darken

Most likely the reason is improper watering. Or rather, in hard water.

We recommend that before watering the aglaonema, place a container of water in a quiet, dim place. Water with the presence of chlorine will destroy any plant even after boiling, so if this is the only water that comes from the tap, you will have to buy clean bottled water.

1. Aglaonema leaves dry out and curl

This indicator indicates insufficient heat in the room or a draft has entered here.

To prevent the foliage from completely turning black, hurry to create the most favorable conditions.

1. The tips of aglaonema leaves darken

Lack of humidity! The leaves do not receive proper moisture, which is why they gradually die.

Photo 4. Yellow spots on aglaonema

Care errors and their elimination

Frequently encountered problems when growing aglaonema and ways to solve them:

Care

When growing the codiaum variegum plant, care at home will require fulfilling a number of requirements.

Lighting

All forms and varieties of “Joseph's cloak” need bright, mostly diffused, lighting.

Windows facing west or east are considered the best for codiaums.

On the southern windows, shading is necessary - otherwise there will be burns, and on the northern windows - additional lighting so that the motley color does not disappear.

Temperature

Croton needs a warm habitat, without drafts and sudden transitions from heat to cold, with an even annual temperature variation.

Optimal ranges are 20-22 degrees in summer and 18-20 degrees in winter.

In any case, the temperature should not drop below 16 degrees. In cold soil the plant rots.

The soil

“Joseph's Cloak” feels good in loose, fertile soil with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction.

Ready-made soil mixtures are suitable for palms and ficus.

You can also mix equal amounts of turf, leaf (or peat) soil and washed river sand.

A few more recipes suitable for croton:

• Garden soil, peat and sand in a ratio of 3:1:1;
• Turf soil with small amounts of sphagnum and sand;
• Turf, leaf soil and sand in a ratio of 2:1:1.

Before filling the planting container with soil substrate, a drainage layer of expanded clay, broken bricks and pieces of charcoal must be poured onto its bottom in order to prevent stagnation of water and rotting of the root system.

Transfer

When replanting a grown plant, choose a slightly larger pot, 2-3 cm larger in diameter than the previous one.

Croton will not like an overly spacious “apartment”.

When replanting variegated croton, they try to transfer it without destroying the earthen ball.

The frequency of transplants depends on the age of the croton and the intensity of its growth.

As a rule, young specimens require an annual change of “home”.

With age, the interval between transplants will be 2-3 years or more.

It is recommended to replant codiaum purchased in a store into a “home” container with a drainage layer and fresh soil mixture, freeing its roots from the transport substrate.

Humidity

Croton is a true child of the tropics and needs year-round high air humidity: ideally it should be 70-80%.

Such a plant must be sprayed with soft water - regularly, daily, especially since it has practically no rest period.

A monthly shower is also useful, as is placing the container on a tray with wet pebbles.

Watering

For regular, abundant watering of the “Joseph’s cloak,” you need soft, well-settled, not cold water.

When dosing, it is important to follow the principle: “water, but do not overfill.” Ideally, the soil does not dry out more than 2 cm, and water does not stagnate in the pan

Ideally, the soil does not dry out more than 2 cm, and water does not stagnate in the pan.

Those gardeners who understand the language of plants well focus on the barely noticeable drooping of the codiaum leaves: as soon as this occurs, watering is needed, and quite generously.

Top dressing

From April to August, croton should receive weekly fertilizing with fertilizers for variegated or decorative deciduous plants. Alternating organic and mineral fertilizing also gives good results.

In the autumn-winter period, the frequency of fertilizing (after watering, on wet soil) is reduced to once a month.

Bloom

In the summer, under favorable conditions, crotons can bloom with inconspicuous shaggy bunches of balls.

Flowering, pollination, and ripening of codiaum seeds are a subject of interest to breeders who develop new varieties.

In the usual practice of home floriculture, the resulting buds are removed so that the codiaum does not waste energy on the development of flowers.

The very intention of the croton to bloom indicates that the plant is happy, it wants to live and reproduce here.

Reproduction

In indoor culture, codiaum is propagated vegetatively: by cuttings and layering.

Propagation by cuttings: The best are apical cuttings 10-15 cm long, with at least two pairs of leaves, cut with a sharp knife in January-April.

The cut areas are sprinkled with crushed charcoal. The milky juice is washed off, the lower cut of the cutting is treated with a root formation stimulator and placed in soil with a temperature of 25-26 degrees.

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Cover with plastic wrap, ventilate regularly, moisten the substrate, and spray the cuttings.

The standard rooting period is a month.

Reproduction by air layering: With this method of propagation, a fairly long branch is selected, bent to the surface of the soil, sprinkled with it and fixed.

After the buried branch takes root and produces new shoots, it is separated from the original plant.

Caring for aglaonema in the juvenile period

Young aglaonemas obtained from cuttings are planted in separate pots after they have formed their own root system. Initially, the pots are taken low and small in volume.

In the juvenile period, the main task is to help the plant grow good roots. There is no point in chasing the rapid growth of foliage at this time. Therefore, the soil in the pots is less nutritious than for adult aglaonemas. It can consist of equal parts of a universal peat soil mixture, coconut fiber and agroperlite.

After the root system of a young aglaonema has mastered its first pot, the plant can be transplanted into a full-fledged nutrient substrate.

Young aglaonemas are replanted more often than adults - approximately once a year.

Diseases and pests, control methods

Aglaonema, if agricultural practices are violated, can be susceptible to diseases and pest invasions. If the plant is watered abundantly and the room is cold enough, it may be affected by gray rot. To get rid of it, you should cut off all damaged parts. Transplant the plant into a new pot and increase the air temperature.

Aglaonema pests:

• mealybug;
• spider mite

The vital activity of insects leads to gradual withering of the plant, drying out and falling of leaves, and cessation of growth. If action is not taken in time, it will die.

Effective pest control is only possible with the use of insecticides:

• Aktellik;
• Aktara;
• Intavir and others.

Aglaonema transplant

The plant requires the first transplant within a week after purchase. Aglaonema needs to be transplanted from store-bought soil to the “correct” home soil. Then young specimens are replanted every spring, and adults once every 4-5 years. Each time the roots of the aglaonema completely entwine the earthen ball, you need to take the pot 2-3 cm larger. The pot must have drainage holes, and the pot itself must be high enough to accommodate a thick layer of drainage. At the same time, the volume of the pot should not be large - this way the plant will devote more energy to the formation and growth of leaves, and less to the formation of roots.

Please note that aglaonema is poisonous, so wear gloves when working with the flower, or wash your hands with soap after work. Otherwise, irritation may appear on the skin.

Aglaonema loves loose, acidic soil. You can prepare the soil yourself by observing the following proportions:

• leaf soil - 6 parts;
• turf soil or humus - 1 part;
• sand or perlite - 2 parts;
• peat - 2 parts;
• charcoal - 2 parts.

Step-by-step transplant process

1. Fill the selected pot with drainage (pebbles, broken bricks, expanded clay) about a quarter full.
2. Add the prepared substrate so that it, together with the drainage, occupies half the volume of the pot.
3. We remove the aglaonema from the old pot and carefully shake the roots off the ground.
4. Having straightened the roots, we place the plant in a new pot in the center.
5. We fill up the soil so that only the trunk remains visible.
6. Water generously.

Types and varieties of aglaonem

Out of all the variety, plant growers prefer several varieties for their window sills. These are Aglaonema modest (moderate), Changeable (changeable), Silver queen, Silver king, Aglaonema rounded, Short-covered, Painted and others.

More information about the types and varieties can be found here

A few more popular varieties:

Aglaonema Crete

This whimsical beauty requires bright, diffused lighting so as not to lose the brightness of the leaves.

Both pure green and pure red leaf blades can appear on the same plant, but more often it is a bright mixture of shades of red and emerald. The leaf cuttings are usually pale pink, which adds additional charm to the flower.

Cutless

This variety resembles a stemless bush with elongated long leaves collected in a rosette. Along the edge and in the central part they are darker than the main part of the sheet.

Friedman

A large variety of Aglaonema painted can easily reach a meter in height. It is distinguished by a beautiful variegated color, darker along the edges.

Possible problems in cultivation and diseases

The exotic beauty reacts sharply to changing conditions of detention. This applies to all aspects: lighting, watering, temperature. Aglaonema will tolerate a deficiency of these growth factors, but an excess will cause death.

Leaves lose turgor and wither

There are two reasons for this reaction of the flower: hypothermia of the earthen clod, or rotting of the roots of the plant. In the first case, you need to water and spray the flower with warm water (only if watering is required). It is important to eliminate the source of hypothermia.

In the second case, you should inspect the roots and remove the damaged parts. If there is rot, the roots should be cut off, washed, and the flower transplanted into new soil.

Foliage color is lost

The motley or spotted color becomes blurred, and over time it is completely lost and thins out.

Note! This behavior is typical when there is a lack of light or nutrients.

The bright color of the foliage is supported by nitrogen fertilizers and organic matter.

Brown spots on leaves

If the spots are wet, this is a sign of overwatering and stagnant moisture in the pot. You should take a break from watering and monitor the behavior of the flower in the future. If spots continue to appear and leaves begin to curl, urgent replanting is necessary.

If brown spots have spread along the stems, this is a fungal infection. Most often, such a flower cannot be saved.

When a brown border appears on the leaves and the leaf blade begins to wrinkle, the air is too dry. The pot should be removed away from heating devices and the humidity should be increased by spraying.

The lower leaves fall off

Yellowing and falling of the lower foliage is a natural process for the flower. Usually the leaves on aglaonema turn yellow at the beginning or end of the dormant period.

Origin and appearance of aglaonema

According to various sources, the genus Aglaonema (belonging to the Araceae family) has from 20 to 50 species .

This is an evergreen erect plant with large fleshy leaf blades and a short stem, which is practically not expressed in young plants. The leaves are dense, grow on long petioles, and have an oblong sword-shaped shape.

It’s hard to imagine how aglaonema blooms unless you see it blooming in person. The flower is a spadix bordered by a pale green, almost white trail of a spathe . Depending on the variety, the size of the flower and the color of the leaves change.

Many gardeners choose aglaonema as a flower for the home, but people with a tendency to severe skin allergic reactions need to be careful: aglaonema juice can cause serious irritation.

Methods of vegetative propagation of aglaonema

Aglaonema can be easily propagated using cuttings or dividing the bush:

• Material for cuttings is taken from an old plant that has begun to branch. Use a clean blade to cut off the side shoot. The cut is sprinkled with crushed activated carbon and slightly dried. A glass with wet agroperlite and sphagnum is prepared, the cutting is cut into it by 4-5 cm and covered with a bag or a cut bottle. The improvised greenhouse is kept at a temperature of +25C, the cuttings are regularly ventilated and sprayed with Epin-Extra solution. Rooting occurs within a month.
• The bush is divided when the aglaonema produces active basal shoots. During transplantation, the roots are carefully freed from the old soil, washed, and the young plants are separated from the mother bush and planted in a separate pot.

Some sources also stipulate the seed method of propagation of aglaonema. However, in practice it is not used, since it is very difficult to obtain fully viable seeds that retain the varietal qualities of the mother specimen.

Several cuttings can be cut from one thick shoot if the lateral buds are well formed on it. In this case, the cuttings are placed horizontally in the greenhouse so that the growing young plants can take root in the substrate.

Reproduction of aglaonema

Aglaonemas are propagated in spring and summer by stem cuttings, suckers, and less often by seeds.

Propagation by cuttings

Cuttings are rooted in warm soil. All aglaonemas can be easily taken from cuttings, and for species with a vertical stem, it should be recommended not to take the usual cuttings from the top, but to cut off most of the stem almost at soil level and then plant it in a high pot. Roots are actively formed from dormant buds on the stem, and the above-ground part of the mother plant produces new shoots. Water the newly planted cuttings carefully until they are completely rooted, avoiding soaking. The substrate should be as loose as possible.

Cutting technology

• Aglaonema has become bare from below and is “falling over.” Such a plant needs to be rejuvenated - cut.
• Cut off the most overgrown stem at a height of 2-3 cm from the soil level.
• Using pruning shears, divide the long shoot into several 10–15 cm sections.
• Manually remove the bottom leaves from each cutting.
• Pour drainage into the container, then the rooting substrate - coarse river sand or a mixture of peat and sand.
• Sprinkle the finished mixture with plenty of water.
• Immerse the cuttings in the substrate to half their height, water generously and place the container in a warm place.
• After 2–3 weeks in spring and summer or 4–6 weeks in winter, the plant will be sufficiently rooted.
• Plant the rooted cuttings several at a time in small pots or plant them separately in different ones.

Reproduction of aglaonema by seeds

The efficiency of seed propagation of Aglaonema is high. Abundant fruiting in indoor conditions is not only surprising in itself and pleases the eye with large red single-seeded berries, but also guarantees the germination of seeds of ripe fruits (do not pick berries ahead of time: fully ripe fruits have an intense red color and remain in the hand when touched). Artificial pollination is not required.

How does aglaonema reproduce?

Reproduction takes a very long time, since the beauty takes root reluctantly. It takes especially long to propagate by cuttings and seeds. But dividing the bush is an effective and quick way.

Germination of seeds

Seeds are sown in a mixture of sand and peat. Before planting, the soil is spilled with hot water so that the soil temperature is at 30-35 °C. The container with the seeds is covered with glass and placed in a warm place. The pot is ventilated twice a day. Moisten the crop as the soil dries out, otherwise the young shoots will quickly rot. When the first leaves appear, the pots are exposed to light, protected from direct sunlight. Young flowers need to be cared for with special care.

Rooting cuttings

It is convenient to root with cuttings those types of plants that have a pronounced trunk and shoots extending from it. Propagation by leaves for aglaonema will end in failure: you need to take the stem. The top or side cuttings are cut off and placed immediately in nutrient soil. The main thing in order to root a cutting is constant warmth and moderate moisture.

Important! It is best to cut aglaonema in summer. In the cold season, the cuttings will rot faster than they will take root.

Propagation by cuttings and parts of the trunk

Dividing the bush

It is convenient to propagate a bush when it sends out root shoots next to the main one, which over time become children with an independent root system. It is convenient to place such children in separate pots during transplantation.

If you divide an entire bush, it is important to do so with minimal damage to the roots. The separated shoots should have 3-4 leaves.

How can aglaonema reproduce?

Reproduction of aglaonema does not present any particular difficulties. There are three ways: seeds, cuttings and root division. Aglaonema is not propagated by leaves.

Seeds

This method is suitable for those gardeners who love surprises. The fact is that plants grown from seeds often do not resemble their parents. You can collect seeds only when they are easily separated from the fruit at the slightest touch. If you need to make an effort to remove the seeds, it means they are not yet ripe. Seeds must be planted immediately.

Process description:

• A mixture of peat and river sand in equal proportions is poured into wide flat pots or boxes; sphagnum moss is also suitable.
• The seeds are not deeply buried - a maximum of 1.5 centimeters into moist soil.
• The planting container is covered with polyethylene or glass.
• Every 2-3 days the soil is sprayed with a spray bottle.
• Under favorable conditions, the first shoots appear after 3 months.
• After a pair of true leaves appear, the aglaonema can be transplanted into a separate pot.

Cuttings

As cuttings, you can use apical, lateral shoots of aglaonema or parts of the bare trunk of an adult plant that have growing points. The length of the cutting should be at least 3–5 centimeters, and the presence of at least one leaf guarantees almost 100% rooting.

Rooting parts of the trunk can be done all year round, but it is best to do this in March-April.

• Powder the chopped parts of the trunk with crushed activated carbon and dry for a day.
• We lightly press a piece of the trunk into the wet substrate, if it is small, and if the piece is larger, we deepen it vertically to the growth point.
• Cover with a plastic bag and place in a warm, bright place.
• The temperature should be from +24 to +26 degrees. You need to ventilate the cuttings once a day, slightly lifting the bag. Keep the soil moist.
• In a month, roots will appear.

Rooting of apical or lateral shoots occurs as follows:

• We cut off the shoots and tie the leaves on them into a bundle to reduce moisture evaporation.
• We dip them for a few minutes in a solution of Epin or Zircon for better root formation (you don’t have to do this, aglaonema usually takes root well without this procedure).
• Sprinkle the sections with crushed activated carbon and dry for 8 hours.
• Prepare the pot: pour drainage and soil in half with sand. We moisturize well.
• Using a pencil or stick, make a hole in the ground.
• We plant the cutting to the base of the leaf, compacting the soil around it.
• Using a frame and cellophane we make a greenhouse.
• Place in a warm, bright place. Ventilate periodically.
• Don't forget to moisten the soil as it dries.
• In a month, the aglaonema will have a root system.

Dividing rhizomes

An adult, heavily grown plant, which is divided into several bushes, is best suited for this method.

• Remove the aglaonema from the pot.
• Shake off excess soil and wash the roots in water.
• Using a sharp knife or scissors, separate the young shoots with a formed root system.
• Sprinkle the cut areas with activated carbon, crushed into powder.
• Immediately plant the separated shoot in a pot prepared in advance and water well.
• Place in a warm place for a week. Spray periodically.
• When a young leaf appears on the aglaonema, which indicates normal rooting, place the pot with the plant in a permanent place.

Features of care in winter, rest period

Aechmea flower - care and propagation at home

The flower stops growing between September and March. This sleep pattern allows the plant to accumulate energy for the growing season in early spring. When the beautiful aglaonema sleeps, home care for her is as follows:

• Lighting without direct sunlight. Heavy shading in winter can cause the foliage to stretch. Therefore, it is important to place the pot in a fairly bright place.
• Temperature for sleeping – no higher than 16-18 °C.
• Watering is adjusted as the soil in the pot dries.
• Complementary feeding and spraying are canceled.

If it is not possible to reduce the temperature during sleep, the flower must be provided with additional illumination with an artificial lamp. Without this, new leaves will appear thin and elongated.

What kind of lighting is needed for aglaonema?

Aglaonema with pink-green leaves loves indirect sunlight
To find the ideal place for a flower, remember - or find out - where it lives in natural conditions. Aglasha is native to the tropics of Southeast Asia, where it thrives in the lower layers of wet or dry jungle. She gets enough light, albeit diffused. Accordingly, the ideal lighting conditions for aglaonema are indirect sunlight . East windows are perfect. Not everyone has ideal windows, but in the case of aglaonema there is no need to be upset about this.

In fact, thanks to aglaonema for its pickiness: it can be installed on almost any window. South-facing windows pose a risk of burning the leaves of variegated species, especially light pink and white ones, in summer. Northern windows and poorly lit areas - corners, shelves and racks far from the natural source of light - this is a lack of light, which will lead to stretching of the stems and some loss of decorativeness.

As a rule, in conditions of lack of light, aglaonemas are still ready to grow. They won’t look as lush as they would in good lighting - this primarily applies to variegated species - but green ones like Maria will do just fine anyway.

Feeding aglaonema: fertilizers and scheme

Growing aglaonema is impossible without regular feeding. They are carried out using any complex fertilizers for decorative leafy indoor plants:

Active feeding of aglaonema begins in March, when the length of daylight hours increases. From this time until the beginning of September, plants are fertilized at the roots once every 2 weeks, and at the leaves - once a week. In autumn, foliar feeding stops completely, and root feeding is reduced to once a month. From December to February, aglaonema is not fertilized.

“For a year after transplanting into fresh soil, aglaonema need not be fertilized at all. But for this the soil must be very good and nutritious. I plant my aroids in a self-prepared soil mixture with the following composition: 3 parts turf soil – 2 parts vermicompost, 1 part peat universal soil, 1 part fine charcoal, 1 part coconut fiber.”

V. Yusupova, florist, collector of aroid plants

Should I bathe Aglaonema or not?

Both bathing and wiping the leaves from dust will benefit the aglaonema.
Aglaonema will be happy to take water treatments once every month or two, but it is much more important to wipe off dust from the leaves , especially if the plant grows in low light conditions.

Dust prevents the effective absorption of light and, accordingly, slows down the rate of photosynthesis, as a result of which the plant obtains organic nutrients from inorganic ones. Therefore, dust literally fills his mouth.

When and how does it bloom

Spathiphyllum domino flower - home care

Not every owner has seen how aglaonema blooms. Only an adult plant is capable of throwing out buds, and only if it is comfortable to grow in the conditions created for it.

Flowering culture

Types of flowers

The flower is characteristic of the Araceae family - it is an ear with a yellow-green veil. The size of the cobs depends on the type and size of the flower stems.

Flower shapes

The shape of the cob depends on the type of aglaonema. It can be club-shaped, cylindrical, or thin and elongated.

Flowering period

The flowering period is long - from February to November. The plant can throw out several ears at once at the ends of its stems.

Changes in care during the flowering period

Intensive and prolonged flowering can stop the green growth of the bush. In this case, flower growers take the following measures:

• increase lighting;
• complementary foods are introduced, where nitrogen predominates;
• change the top layer of soil to a more nutritious one.

Since flowering is not particularly decorative, the buds are often simply cut off along with the peduncle: this way the exotic plant will not waste energy on the formation of fruits and seeds.

Features of watering indoor aglaonema

Irrigation of aglaonema should be organized so that the soil in the pot maintains moderate moisture, but there is no stagnation of water and waterlogging of the soil. This is achieved by the following methods:

• Use a pot with plenty of drainage holes. Therefore, for planting aglaonema, it is better to use plastic containers, in the bottom of which, if necessary, additional holes can be easily made. If the pot is then installed in a ceramic pot, you need to put a little expanded clay on the bottom of the decorative vessel so that the irrigation water flowing through the drainage holes does not interfere with air exchange.
• Loose soils that allow water to pass through well are used. Ready-made peat-based substrates must be supplemented with loosening components that prevent the soil from compacting and caking - coconut fiber, finely chopped coconut chips or pine bark.

Aglaonema is watered only with warm, soft water. In the summer, irrigation is plentiful and carried out frequently - as soon as the top layer of the substrate dries out. In autumn and winter you need to look at the condition of the plant. If it continues the growing season, the frequency of watering is kept at the same level. If leaf growth stops, the amount and abundance of irrigation is reduced.

It is useful to supplement soil irrigation with “water procedures” on the leaves. Practice shows that aglaonemas respond well to a warm shower, especially on hot days in summer. Bathing in the shower is also necessary in winter if the pot is installed on the windowsill above the heating radiator.

Sources used:

• https://fikusexpert.com/komnatnye/aroidnye/aglaonema.html
• https://rasteniya.pro/aglaonema-uxod-v-domashnix-usloviyax-7-vazhnejshix-pravil-razmnozhenie-foto-sortov/
• https://glav-dacha.ru/na-podokonnike-rastenie-aglaonema/
• https://roomflower.ru/komnatnye-tsvety/dekorativnolistnye/aglaonema-ukhod-v-domashnikh-usloviyakh.html
• https://pocvetam.ru/komnatnye-rasteniya/aglaonema-ukhod-v-domashnikh-usloviyakh.html

In what soil should aglaonema be planted?

Due to the high moisture content in the stems and roots of the plant, aglaonema tends to rot when exposed to excessive moisture. Therefore, the soil that suits her is light and dries well .

Alaonema loves slightly acidic soils , closer to neutral: it is advisable to maintain a pH of 5.6-6.5 .

You can buy ready-made soil of suitable acidity and add perlite at about 2:1. Of the popular soil mixtures, Compo Sana universal . It already contains nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, plus the growth regulator Agrosil and perlite. Additional perlite can be added.

You can independently mix your own substrate based on neutral peat, pine bark (sold both separately and as a soil for orchids - both are suitable) and perlite in equal parts.

Here are the ingredients you can use to make your own soil.

When preparing the mixture, it is useful to add long-acting fertilizers (see paragraph below) or a couple of tablets of gliocladin to prevent rot (fungicides).