Insulation of slopes - materials, types of work, price
Modern window designs reliably protect rooms from the penetration of cold air and noise
In order for the result of installing such windows to fully meet expectations, it is necessary to pay special attention to the slopes: they are the most vulnerable point
Insulating the slopes will not only keep the house warm and save on heating costs, but will also protect the mounting foam used when installing windows from the effects of an aggressive external environment, and will give the structure a beautiful finished look.
- 1 Choice of material: what to prefer?
- 2 Don't give the cold a chance
Choice of material: what to choose?
To equip warm slopes, the same materials are used that are used to insulate facades and walls. The most common and accessible are:
- Mineral or stone wool. It has excellent heat and sound insulation properties, is non-flammable, resistant to moisture and easy to use.
- Polystyrene foam is an inexpensive, practical and easy-to-use lightweight material with excellent thermal insulation properties.
- Extruded polystyrene foam is a modern modification of polystyrene foam, giving the material greater strength. It has low thermal conductivity, does not absorb moisture, is frost-resistant, resistant to mechanical stress and temperature changes.
- Sandwich panels are a pressed material consisting of two layers of rigid PVC with mineral wool or fiberglass insulation between them. Such panels do not allow cold to pass through, absorb noise, are resistant to dampness and are easy to use.
Any of the materials on the market copes well with the main task - insulation.
Don't give the cold a chance
There are two types of work on insulating window slopes: internal and external, and they must be carried out comprehensively.
For exterior work, mineral wool or extruded polystyrene foam is most often used. A primer solution is applied to the prepared surface, cleaned of dust and particles of polyurethane foam, which helps protect load-bearing structures, prevent the formation of fungus and mold, and improve the adhesion of materials. The insulation is secured using liquid nails, dowels and reinforcing mesh. Afterwards plastering work and painting of the finished flat surface are carried out.
When carrying out interior work, moisture-resistant plasterboard or sandwich panels are most often used to obtain the best results. The surface of the slopes is pre-prepared by analogy with exterior finishing work. Afterwards, a profile is installed around the perimeter, to which the drywall will subsequently be attached. The voids are filled with the selected thermal insulation material and foamed. The final stage of work is the installation of a decorative profile, corners and surface painting. It is recommended to treat the panel joints with liquid silicone.
Most companies providing window installation services perform insulation and slope work as part of the contract. But if you purchase double-glazed windows as an independent product, and not a comprehensive service, insulation and finishing will have to be done separately.
Despite the apparent simplicity of the work, it is better not to do the insulation of window slopes correctly yourself. This is especially true when it comes to complex window openings, for example, arched ones.
We are ready to offer you our services for insulating window slopes of any type at affordable prices. Our qualified specialists, who have many years of experience in this field, will quickly and efficiently carry out both external and internal insulation and finishing of window slopes of various configurations.
Internal slopes (plastic)
Prices for complex finishing depending on the depth of the slope. | ||||
Slope depth | Up to 25 cm. | 25 – 35 cm. | 35 – 50 cm. | 50 – 100 cm. |
Prices per m.p. | 650 rub. | 750 rub. | 850 rub. | On request |
Arched slopes
Prices for complex finishing depending on the depth of the slope. | ||||
Slope depth | Up to 25 cm. | 25 – 35 cm. | 35 – 50 cm. | 50 – 100 cm. |
Prices per m.p. | 840 rub. | 940 rub. | 1100 rub. | On request |
Street slopes
Prices for complex finishing depending on the depth of the slope | ||||
Slope depth | Up to 25 cm. | 25 – 35 cm. | 35 – 50 cm. | 50 – 100 cm. |
Prices per m.p. | 840 rub. | 940 rub. | 1100 rub. | On request |
Laminated slopes
Prices for complex finishing depending on the depth of the slope, lamination to match the color of the window profile. | ||||
Slope depth | Up to 25 cm. | 25 – 35 cm. | 35 – 50 cm. | 50 – 100 cm. |
Prices per m.p. | 1550 rub. | 1900 rub. | 2750 rub. | On request |
Material selection
The choice of material should be based on the best characteristics for the given conditions. Each material has its own characteristics, which are taken into account when choosing it to cover a window. All materials differ in cost. This also needs to be taken into account.
Paper putty
Window paper is also called paper putty. It is one of the cheapest and simplest means. To prepare it, you only need paper, for example, newspaper, and water; to increase its effectiveness, you can add crushed chalk or clay to the resulting mass. This composition has high plasticity and is also easy to clean while it is wet.
The method is quite common due to its ease of preparation and minimal cost, as well as ease of removal. Insulated openings can only last one winter season. In addition, if you seal the windows with paper, the sealed windows cannot be opened. Paper putties are not used in harsh winter conditions, that is, if too much wind blows through the window, the seal will be compromised.
Paper tape
The fastest way to insulate windows is to use paper tape. It has a number of advantages, including low cost and speed of application, but it also has a number of disadvantages. In this way it will not be possible to reliably insulate window frames. In strong gusts of wind and drafts, the window tape will come off, and this also applies to severe frosts.
Window tape rarely lasts throughout the winter. A window pasted in this way must be covered with a special compound before preparation, then the effect will be better.
Cotton wool or foam rubber
Cotton wool or foam rubber is suitable for pasting. It is worth considering that special technical wool is sold only in large quantities. This method is ideal for sealing large gaps that form in the sashes, at the junction with a wall or window sill.
To get rid of small cracks, use adhesive tape. This will help to better insulate and also act as a decorative element. With this method, you need to spend money not only on basic, but also on auxiliary materials.
The main disadvantage here is that these materials absorb moisture very well, that is, if we paste over a wet surface, the seam will be damaged. It also requires annual replacement, and after insulation the room will be impossible to ventilate, since opening the window will damage the entire seam.
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Self-adhesive foam
Self-adhesive foam rubber allows you to easily and quickly protect the room from drafts. The advantages include low cost, as well as an adhesive surface that allows you to create independent seams. This material can completely eliminate cracks without the use of additional materials.
If there is adhesive tape on the foam rubber, then it can be glued to the inside of the sashes, which will not allow the windows to be used as usual. When using this material, it is worth considering that foam rubber often prevents the windows from closing completely.
In addition, it is not able to absorb steam from the air and does not have any protective layer. It cannot be used if the sashes fit very tightly to the frame. In this situation, you will have to partially cut off the wood.
For large gaps, the use of additional material is required to glue the base to the foam rubber. All gluing materials must be used on an already prepared surface - foam rubber tape is no exception.
Self-adhesive seal
Self-adhesive sealing is the most popular among people who have wooden frames installed in their homes. This is due to the fact that the seal has a low cost. In addition, thanks to the self-adhesive tape, it can also be glued to the internal doors. At the same time, there will be no problems with opening or closing, and all because the seal is hollow inside, which allows it to fit tightly to the windows without preventing them from opening.
The main advantage of the seal is that it can be used for two years without replacement, but it also has disadvantages. Due to the popularity of this type of insulation, many fakes appear on the market, which peel off from the window frame after just a few weeks. For best results using the sealant, glue both sides of the frame.
Construction putty
Construction putty is ideal for sealing the junction of glass and the frame itself. Before starting work, you should remove the glazing bead or the old putty, if the procedure was carried out previously. After application, the composition should be leveled and wait until it dries, after which it can be painted. If you need to install a bead on top, then the layer itself needs to be made thinner, which will reduce the effectiveness of this method.
The main advantage here is the very low cost. When choosing this method, it is worth considering that it requires maximum accuracy and must be updated every year. In addition, it is impossible to remove all the cracks between the frame and the sash with putty.
Sealant
The sealant is used to prevent drafts from entering through the window glass seating area. Before applying it, you need to thoroughly wash the windows and then degrease them. It is worth considering that the process of applying sealant is very labor-intensive, since you need to make an even seam with the same amount of sealant.
This method allows you to quickly protect windows from the penetration of cold air through the junction of the frame and the window, but it is useless when it comes to the frame itself. Investments are also required to purchase the sealant itself and a gun for applying it. If several years before this moment the eyelet was glued with various materials for the winter, rather than sealed, then a complete cleaning of the frame will be required.
Paraffin
Paraffin is a fairly cheap method that has been known for quite some time. To do this, you need to melt the paraffin itself and carefully treat the window frames with it. This will help prevent heat from escaping from the room through the frame itself, but will not protect against drafts. In addition, this procedure is very labor-intensive.
This method is best combined with secondary work. For example, first there is paraffin treatment. Next, surface gluing is required. If you glue it before the paraffin has dried and sealed, then the integrity may be compromised.
Heat-saving film
This film is used to process the junction of glass with the frame itself. It allows you to retain some of the heat in the room. This method, although very effective, has a number of disadvantages, including high cost and the inability to protect the joint between the frame and the sashes. Window tape is the best option if done correctly and following all window preparation instructions.
Insulation using Swedish technology
This procedure is carried out using Eurostrip insulation. The essence of this method is that the insulation itself is not glued to the doors themselves, but is placed in a special groove made. With this method of insulation, a partial reconstruction of the window is carried out, so this is the most expensive method in terms of money. The cost of insulating one window varies from 2,500 to 7,000 thousand rubles.
At the same time, this method is the most effective and durable. Manufacturers provide a guarantee of twenty years of service. It is worth considering that when installing such insulation, you will need to seek the help of a specially trained person, which further increases the cost.
The choice of material will depend on the final cost and effect. The most basic rule is that cheap methods will not always fully match quality work. Also, often several combined methods may be required for a good result. For example, sealant with adhesive tape. It must be taken into account that the materials must be of high quality. Otherwise, the surface of the plastic or wooden frame may be damaged.
Technology of work execution
Insulating window slopes from the outside requires step-by-step correct execution of the work and compliance with all rules and recommendations. At the initial stage, the surface is prepared, which is cleaned of dust and contaminants.
Next, the cleaned surface is carefully primed with a special primer, which is intended for exterior finishing work. At the next stage, measurements of the width of the slopes are taken and insulation of the required dimensions is prepared.
For finishing activities, the following equipment is needed, which includes a hammer drill, a screwdriver, fasteners, sealant, metal profiles, primer, adhesive solution, insulation, and building level.
Then, using a special glue or solution, the selected insulation is glued to the surface, which is additionally fixed with plastic dowels. They eliminate the formation of cold bridges and more efficient heat retention.
A reinforcing mesh is placed on top of the insulation for better and high-quality fastening, and at the final stage the surface is plastered or sheathed with a certain material.
Then proceed to the side parts of the window frame. In some cases, when there are large irregularities, it is necessary to install sheathing. Metal profiles are used for the frame, and the selected thermal insulation material is placed in the free space between the wall and the frame.
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The best option for exterior window decoration is the use of metal panels or siding. They are characterized by increased strength and reliability, long service life, and resistance to various negative factors.
Internal insulation
The method of insulating slopes from the inside will depend on the window design option. If you are making a slope from plasterboard, then it is very convenient to use mineral wool or foam plastic for thermal insulation. You can also fill the space between sheets of drywall with special foam.
One of the most popular methods of internal insulation of slopes on windows is the installation of sandwich panels. They are mounted on profiles. Initially, it is necessary to measure the slopes and cut the guides. We cut off the vertical side and top profiles with an allowance of 2-3 cm. The profiles are attached to the wall with screws.
Initially, two upper profiles are attached parallel to each other, and then vertical side ones. You should also cut four more profile strips that will be attached horizontally to the two side window walls. First, we secure the top panel with screws to the profile, and then snap the rest onto it. They also need to be secured with screws. To give the window a more aesthetic appearance, profiles are also attached to the wall and the gaps are sewn up with them. The ends of the panels are cut at an angle of 45 degrees and glued to the wall.
Foam boards for insulating slopes on windows should be 2-3 cm thick. The insulation should be attached so that the installation seam is completely closed. The foam is placed on a special adhesive solution. Before finishing with foam plastic, it is necessary to attach a reinforcing mesh to the surface. Next, you need to install drywall. The seams between the gypsum board sheets are puttied. They can then be primed and painted.
It is not necessary to cover the slope with plasterboard if you use extruded polystyrene foam. After the material has been fixed and the solution has completely dried, the slabs are puttied and then primed. Next, you can paint the surface. If you use mineral wool for thermal insulation, then it must be additionally wrapped with foil. This will provide additional protection for the material from moisture. It is recommended to wear a mask and gloves when installing mineral wool, since the fibers of the material adversely affect human skin and respiratory tract.
Internal insulation should be carried out together with the installation of the window sill. Also, the air in the room should be dry. As you can see, insulating a window is not at all difficult. If you take into account all the finishing recommendations, you will be able to carry out this work yourself. By insulating the internal and external slopes of windows into the room, you will not only retain heat, but also protect it from moisture.
How to insulate plastic windows for the winter
To quickly insulate plastic windows for the winter with your own hands, you must first determine the places from which it blows. Only after this can you choose materials and insulation method.
How to determine where it is blowing from a plastic window
You can find places in a plastic structure where the air is blowing from in the following ways:
- hand. If you run your palm over the surface of the window, you can immediately detect cracks;
- using a lighter. Fire has a high level of sensitivity to drafts, so even a slight blowing will show;
- paper. Open the doors, insert a sheet between them and the frame, and close them back. Lightly pull the corner. If the paper pulls out easily, there is a problem with the seal.
Gaps in PVC windows appear for many reasons:
- poorly executed window installation;
- shrinkage of the house, as a result of which the frame becomes skewed. This phenomenon is typical for new buildings or wooden buildings;
- saving. Very often the price is reduced at the expense of quality;
- seal wear;
- ignoring the rules for operating windows.
Do plastic windows need to be insulated?
Regardless of the reason, the cracks will have to be eliminated in any case. How to seal plastic windows for the winter or insulate them so that it does not blow? There are several options:
- First of all, you need to take care of the slopes, both internal and external. First you need to clean them from dirt, foam residues, etc. Then prime them, seal the cracks with fresh foam, cotton wool or polystyrene foam. Cover the slopes with plasterboard, putty and paint;
- some details should also be adjusted. Here we mean loops, which are to some extent responsible for the tightness of the seal. To work you will need a hex screwdriver;
- In some cases, a complete replacement of the seal may be necessary. This is a very labor-intensive process that requires dismantling the glazing bead, lining and the glass unit itself. After installing the new seal, all elements are mounted back.
How to insulate plastic windows to prevent sweating? You can use heat-saving film, which is glued directly to the glass, install a glass heating system, hang warm curtains or fabric (woolen) blinds.
Starting and finishing putty
Training video for beginners
How to prepare the solution was described above, but someone may express a desire to use a pasty acrylic or latex mixture - if a person has enough money, then this is very good. But I will still tell you how to work with starting and finishing gypsum mixtures.
After preparing the start, they pass along the beacons with this solution and here it is advisable to work with a large spatula or small spoon so that their length is enough for the width of the slope - this is especially important for beginners. Apply a 10-centimeter solution along the entire length of a large instrument (40 cm) and apply it to the surface, pulling it from bottom to top.
Then, using a small tool, remove the remaining solution from the large blade, add more and apply it to the wall - this is done until the finish is obtained without pits and scratches. For wallpaper, only a starting layer is enough, which is much more rational, since there are small pores there and the wallpaper will stick better.
Plastering window slopes
You can start applying the finishing layer only the next day, when the starting material has hardened (it is not necessary to wait until it dries completely). When plastering for painting, they use finishing putty - the powder is very fine and the surface is smooth, like a mirror. For the finish, a 1.5-2 mm layer is enough, unless of course the start was successful. I would like to warn you that this kind of putty consumes much less, so if you do not rely on your finishing speed, make a batch of about a quarter bucket of water and a quarter bucket of powder.
Note. During work, you need to constantly monitor the slope angle, since the putty will fall on the wall during plastering. It is simply removed with a spatula.
Special grater for grinding
When plastering work is carried out independently for the first time or there is simply very little practical experience, the tiled surface will not turn out to be perfectly smooth. This means that it will need to be sanded using a special grater with clamps, medium-grit sandpaper or a diamond mesh. To select sandpaper you need to know its marking, and according to GOST 3647-80 it can be from 4 to 80 with the letter H separated by a hyphen and the larger the number, the larger the grain. In our case, these are 20-H, 16-H, 12-H. In Europe, the marking corresponds to modern GOST 52381-05, where, in accordance with ISO 6344 standards, there is the letter P, followed by numbers from 24 to 600, only here a decrease in the number indicates an increase in grain. For grinding use P60, P80, P100 and P120. The same marking according to ISO 6344 applies to diamond meshes.
Note. There are electric grinding machines for such purposes, into which the same paper or the same mesh is inserted. But there is no point in purchasing it for the sake of slopes.
This is the cell of the P100 diamond mesh.
But grinding is grinding, and when can this be done so as not to spoil the whole work? Only when the plaster is completely dry, and this is easy to determine by the presence or absence of dark spots. They indicate places where moisture has accumulated, and if you go over them with sandpaper or a diamond mesh, scratches will remain on the surface. After this, it will not be possible to achieve a smooth surface - you will have to putty again.
Why is it necessary to insulate a window sill?
Rice. 2. Insulating the window sill will eliminate drafts
Most Russians believe that the issue of room insulation can be solved by installing PVC windows. However, to effectively retain heat in a residential or office space, absolutely all elements of the window opening must be used. This is especially true for the window sill. It is this element of the window structure that is considered the most vulnerable. Therefore, if the temperature in the room drops, first of all, you should check the area where the window frame adjoins the window sill. If cold air comes from there, causing drafts, then residents urgently need to address the issue of insulating this particular window structure.
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How to make an external slope - the wisdom of plastering
Windows facing a loggia or balcony can be protected with the same plastic panels that are installed from the inside. Accurate, fast and efficient. In addition, plastic products are ideally suited for plastic windows - they will look quite harmonious. The same cannot be said about wooden windows. The process becomes somewhat more complicated if you decorate the walls of your house with siding (block house, lining, metal or plastic siding).
In this case, you should select platbands directly for the finishing material - this should be done when choosing it, since suitable additional elements are often sold as a set. Plastering street slopes is the most time-consuming method. Although there are benefits from its use - consumables are inexpensive, and the result is quite durable. In addition, plaster provides additional thermal insulation.
The causes of possible problems may be:
- 1Incorrect installation
- 2Poor quality fittings
- 3Wear of the sealing part
- 4Violation of the sealing of the double-glazed window
- 5Condensation
Call a plastic window repair specialist, phone: +7
To correct the situation, you can additionally install a film on the inside of the glass; sometimes it may be necessary to adjust the entire system.
But what to do if the problem lies in the slopes? Let's look further.
Only specialists can cope with all the troubles. You shouldn’t take risks and fix problems yourself. Trust professionals who guarantee quality.
Preliminary work before the main work
Before insulating plastic windows, a number of preparatory measures should be taken, which will eliminate the occurrence of problems in the future.
In addition, the foam is often not covered in any way on the outside of the building - as a result, the material rapidly loses its properties under the influence of sunlight, frost and precipitation. All this only means that the uncovered material itself does not prevent the penetration of cold and external sounds.
Sealing seams, especially on the outside, is the easiest way to prevent the window structure from blowing out
So, checking the foam comes down to a careful inspection of the assembly seam. It is advisable to do this in windy and frosty weather - this will help to quickly detect weak points that allow cold to pass through.
Identified deficiencies should be eliminated by applying a small amount of new material. There is no need to apply too much foam as it tends to expand when exposed to air, which can lead to unnecessary contamination.
After foaming all joints and seams, excess foam is removed and protected using various materials
After eliminating problems with installation seams, you should move on to the next stage - additional insulation of windows from the outside.
You can carry out the whole process yourself - the main difficulties arise if there are blind sashes on the window. In this case, you will have to remove the double-glazed window and then put it back - and it is better to entrust this operation to specialists.
How were windows thermally insulated before?
Until recently, drafts and blow-outs arising from defects in window openings were eliminated using a variety of improvised means. These included small rags, special paper, medical cotton wool, and adhesive tape.
Although this method provided the desired effect and was easy to implement with your own hands, the aesthetic appearance of the window after it was not the best. For example, when removing the same tape, entire pieces of wooden window coverings often came off. To fix the problem, the damaged surfaces had to be repainted.
This also applies to paper glued over frame slots. As for cotton wool and rags, such “heat insulators” often need to be picked out, they fit so tightly into the corresponding holes.
It is clear that it is advisable to leave such methods of insulating window structures in the past. They bring nothing but trouble. Not to mention that the slopes do not insulate at all. Meanwhile, these functional elements are of great importance when it comes to protecting plastic windows from the inside from the cold. What to do? The answer is obvious - use modern heat insulators.
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It’s probably no secret that during the operation of wooden windows, the wood dries out, which is why gaps and cracks appear in the frames, the gaps between the glass and the glazing beads that hold it widen, and the tightness of the fit of the sashes to the frame decreases. This is felt especially well with the onset of cold weather, when a mournful wind whistles through the cracks of the window. In principle, there are situations when you can put up with this and not even notice. When the house is “heated” so much that you have to open the door to the unglazed balcony so that it doesn’t get too hot in the room, then the presence of cracks in the frames even plays into your hands. But what about those who are not so lucky, whose house is not so “hot” heated, or energy savings play an important role? In this article, we will tell you several of the most common ways to properly insulate windows so that the lion's share of heat does not escape through them.
Content:
- How to insulate old windows
- Insulating windows with newspapers and paper strips
- Insulation of windows with cotton wool and fabric strips
- Insulation of windows with foam rubber and tape
- Seal cracks in windows with paraffin
- Window insulation using Swedish technology
- Insulation of windows with heat-saving film
- Insulation of window openings
- Video: how to insulate windows
First, a tip that is not directly related to windows, but plays an important role in the correct distribution of heat in the room. In all houses, heating radiators are located under the windows. If you cover the radiators with curtains, the hot air rising from them will be safely blown out through the cracks of the windows, without fulfilling its function of heating the room. Therefore, it is important to leave radiators open.
How to insulate old windows
There are countless ways to insulate old wooden windows. Here they come up with “who can do what”, using the simplest means at hand. Among them are temporary measures, the last traces of which are removed with the onset of stable heat during routine cleaning and window washing. But there are also methods that can ensure windows are sealed for several years. Below are just the most popular ones.
Insulating windows with newspapers and paper strips
A very old proven method. Our grandfathers, when insulating windows with their own hands, used only the most accessible and cheap means. To seal the cracks, old newspapers were used, which were soaked in water. The resulting mass was used to fill the space between the glass and the glazing beads and other cracks. Sometimes newspapers were first rolled into tubes, only then moistened in water and pushed into the cracks. On top, all the joints of glass with frames and sashes with the supporting frame were glued with strips of paper. To do this, laundry soap was diluted to a liquid consistency, and the resulting solution was applied to strips of paper. They were then quickly glued into place.
This method is good, but in the spring all this “beauty” must be torn off. And here you may encounter the following problem: the paint will come off along with the paper. In addition, the remains of paper and newspapers are quite difficult to wash and remove without damaging the coating of the frames. That is why another method appeared.
Insulation of windows with cotton wool and fabric strips
Window insulation with cotton wool has replaced newspapers. Technical wool is pushed into all the cracks, and the top is sealed with strips of fabric, soaped, as in the previous method. Air bubbles in cotton wool serve as a heat insulator. At the same time, it can be easily pulled out. And the fabric strips come off the frames without leaving marks or damaging the paint coating.
This method still exists today; one should not be skeptical about it. It is cheap and performs its functions with a bang. Cotton wool is an irreplaceable material. But instead of strips of fabric, it is quite possible to use modern tapes for sealing windows, which are a type of paper tape. Once removed they leave no traces.
Insulation of windows with foam rubber and tape
Foam rubber is good if the task is how to effectively insulate windows that have large gaps in the sash. In other words: the opening doors have become so dry that they do not fit tightly to the frames. Here you won’t get off with just cotton wool. Foam rubber is glued along the perimeter of the sashes, which ensures the tightness of closing the window. By the way, earlier, when there was no foam rubber with an adhesive side on the market, it was nailed to the frame with small nails. Foam rubber can last a couple of years, then it will begin to collapse or deform. The top of the frames is sealed with tape, the same as in the previous method, i.e. paper In the spring, the adhesive tape will have to be removed, but the foam rubber can be left.
Seal cracks in windows with paraffin
Another method that only applies to sealing small cracks in frames. Paraffin is melted, drawn into a syringe and filled into the cracks. If the gaps are too large, you can use a clothesline or other cord. It is pushed into the slot and then filled with paraffin. As you understand, this will be enough for more than one season.
Window insulation using Swedish technology
A very popular and advertised method recently. In fact, this technology was not invented by the Swedes. It got its name “in honor” of the material that is used in it - EuroStrip, it was actually invented in Sweden. And the method itself is called “grooved window sealing technology.”
The main difference between the “Swedish technology” is that it is not even insulation “for the winter”, but a partial reconstruction of windows. After it, the windows can be opened freely in the cold season (they will not be sealed), and the “insulation” will last 15 – 20 years.
Small cracks in frames or between glass and glazing beads are sealed using sealant. Windows must first be washed and dried. And the process of applying the sealant should be carried out at a positive temperature from +5 ° C to +40 ° C.
The nozzle on the sealant cartridge must be carefully cut along the intended line, then put on a special construction gun. With it, you can easily apply the composition to hard-to-reach places, distributing it evenly. If the sealant accidentally gets on the frame or window sill, remove it with a cloth soaked in gasoline. It is more convenient to remove the sealant from the glass after it has dried by simply picking it off with a knife.
To seal the recesses, a special window seal made of silicone rubber with a tubular profile is used. The manufacturers of this sealant assure that it is not afraid of paints, temperature changes and dirt. The diameter and structure of the tubes vary, so the sealant must be selected individually to suit the size of the cracks. The marking of the seal is as follows: “E” (K-profile) - for closing gaps of 2 - 3.5 mm; “P” - for gaps of 3 – 5 mm; “D” – will cover 3 – 7 mm. To determine the size of the gap between the frame, you can clamp a piece of plasticine wrapped in cellophane between the sash and the frame.
The work of installing the seal is actually a partial restoration, which is best left to professionals. Moreover, if the frames are not in the best condition, the geometry of the window is broken, the wood is dry or partially rotten, then repairs can cost a pretty penny. The technology itself is designed for windows that have been carefully looked after and maintained in good condition. Otherwise, insulation using Swedish technology can cost as much as new double-glazed plastic windows cost.
To begin with, all sashes are removed from their hinges.
Then a groove is selected along the perimeter of the frame using a cutter.
A seal is rolled into it and glued so that it does not move or fall out during operation. Then the sashes are hung back on their hinges. At the same time, we repeat, if the window is old, you may need to replace the fittings or even align the window geometry.
With proper care, the seal can last from 10 to 20 years. And during this time, you can save up money for new windows, you can also have wooden ones, only modern ones - with double-glazed windows.
Insulation of windows with heat-saving film
A relative innovation is the use of heat-saving films. They let light into the room, but do not “release” infrared radiation from it, thus retaining heat. Such a film has two sides, one with a metallic sheen and conducts current, the other does not. When gluing the film to glass, you must make sure that it “looks” at the street with the metal side - that’s the whole point.
It should be glued overlapping onto the frames and secured with tape. If you stick it carefully, its presence will not even be visible.
Heat-saving film can also be glued to plastic windows.
Insulation of window openings
One of the most important points. Otherwise, the windows can be sealed, but a half-length gap between the frame and the slope or window sill, as our builders like to leave, may not be noticed.
The most common way to seal gaps between the frame and the window opening is to blow it with foam. It’s both effective and a little hassle. Only after it dries, it will be necessary to cut off the excess and somehow seal up this “beauty.”
To seal cracks, you can use putty that you prepare yourself. You need to take building plaster and chalk and mix them 2:1, adding water. Use the resulting putty to seal all the cracks. Its color will not stand out against the background of the window as much as polyurethane foam.
All the methods described above are designed for insulating wooden windows. It's hard to believe, but they say that sometimes plastic windows also require insulation. Most likely, such a need arises as a result of their improper operation or “careless” installation. The reason may also be the poor quality of the windows themselves. If the seal fails, it simply needs to be replaced with a new one. If the problem is more serious, for example, a change in window geometry, sagging sashes or poor functioning of the fittings, you should contact professionals and have them repaired.
Video: how to insulate windows
Installation of external slopes - the fastest and most popular finishing methods
The easiest way to finish external window slopes is putty and painting. Some people get by with just painting, but this is wrong. A layer of paint should protect the foam and windows from atmospheric influences, but we must not forget that the paint itself is susceptible to them, so it must be renewed at least every 2-3 years. The quickest way to make external slopes with your own hands is by gluing plastic corners. They are attached to the corners with butyl sealant, and to the window with double-sided tape. Nevertheless, the plastic copes with its task - it covers the seals from direct sunlight, rain and wind.
For this purpose, galvanized metal is used, which has a special polyester coating. After measuring the window opening and the slopes themselves, a piece of metal of the required size is bent into a shape resembling the letter “Z”. The curved edges are attached to the window frame with self-tapping screws, and the seams are treated with silicone-based sealant. The color should be selected in combination with the color of the roof, windows or facade so that it is in harmony with the overall picture. For example, if the windows are wooden, then for finishing the slopes it is better to choose a color identical to the shade of the wood.
Insulation of slopes of plastic windows from the street
When installing windows, the gaps between the frame and the slope are sealed with polyurethane foam. Because foam degrades from ultraviolet rays, it must be protected. It is for this purpose that in most cases the slopes are additionally trimmed with PVC panels. But this is not their only function; PVC panels have an internal layer of thermal insulation, thanks to which they additionally protect the wall from freezing.
But when installing windows in the attic, customers do not always ask builders to insulate the slopes of plastic windows from the outside. Many people want to save money, others do not pay attention to this issue. Subsequently, they may encounter problems such as condensation on the double-glazed windows and fogging of the windows. We’ll tell you in more detail how to solve these problems on your own.
How to insulate the slopes of plastic windows under siding
Material such as siding should be used only as a finishing touch to a window facing the street. The main insulation should be done using polyurethane foam (sealing the seam between the frame and the slope) and polystyrene foam (insulating the slope from the street). Let us remind you that the PVC window frame should be covered from the outside with insulation or brickwork to 1/3 of its width.
This is the only way to protect yourself from the problem of windows fogging up in winter. Of course, other factors also influence the appearance of condensation - insufficient flow of warm air from the heating radiator or lack of ventilation in the attic of the house. But insulating the PVC frame from the outside will prevent freezing of the structure, and therefore will significantly reduce the heat loss of the room through the window opening.
How to insulate the slopes of plastic windows with foam plastic
If, when installing the window, the frame was not covered with brickwork, then you can protect the structure from freezing using polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam. First, you should level the slopes with plaster and treat them with waterproofing. After this, the thermal insulation slabs are cut to the width of the slope and fixed to the surface using polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam adhesive.
The side and top of the outer slope should be finished with polystyrene foam. After thermal insulation of the window from the street with polystyrene foam, the insulation should be protected from sunlight and mechanical damage. To do this, you can use siding or PVC panels, which can also be installed on polyurethane foam. External corners on the wall are trimmed with plastic corners for aesthetics.
How to insulate the slopes of plastic windows with mineral wool
The use of basalt insulation requires the installation of high-quality vapor and waterproofing, which is very problematic to do on this structure. Constant exposure to cold and heat from both sides on mineral wool will lead to the material getting wet, and all the thermal insulation characteristics of mineral wool will be lost. An exception may be when you insulate the facade of the house with mineral wool under the plaster.
You can also use plaster to finish slopes with and without insulation. You can plaster the slopes from the street yourself. To finish polystyrene foam with plaster, first glue a painting mesh onto the thermal insulation, and then apply façade putty. Brick and concrete walls are first primed, and then facade putty or plaster is also applied to the surface.
Do-it-yourself insulation of plastic windows
The most affordable way to increase the thermal insulation properties of a window yourself is the insulation procedure. It does not require any special equipment. Everything you need can be purchased at any hardware store for little money.
First of all, you will need insulation, which can be:
- Polyurethane foam. It consists of frozen small bubbles filled with air and, thanks to this, is an excellent barrier to the cold. Easily fills voids, expanding and closing all small cracks. It is better to use it for indoor insulation: it cannot withstand extreme temperatures. Ultraviolet radiation is also harmful to her.
- Mineral wool. The most suitable place for it is window sills and slopes. It can and should be used, but covered with other materials from the side of the room so that the small particles of which it consists do not get inside.
- Polystyrene foam and its analogues.
You may also need:
- Silicone sealant and construction tape used in conjunction with it.
- For exterior finishing - building mixtures.
It is necessary to make a reservation right away. A non-specialist can only insulate windows from the outside on the first floor. As altitude increases, the risk of falling increases. Anyone can do work inside the room, albeit with a certain degree of caution. Since breaking a window and flying out of it under unfortunate circumstances is also possible.
The insulation process itself comes down to filling the installation seam with heat-insulating material. Rigid insulation is best used when its width is small - up to 3 mm. Otherwise, mineral wool is a better choice. Each section of the window requires a special approach and requires slightly different insulation techniques. Therefore, we will analyze each element separately.
Slopes of plastic windows
Despite the advice not to work at heights, we need to briefly touch on the topic of insulating window slopes from the outside. This will make it clearer how the window works in principle, which won’t hurt. In addition, residents of lower floors may find this information useful.
During the cold season, cold air leaks into the room from the street through poorly insulated external slopes. And the slopes on the side of the room can freeze during the season of especially low temperatures. It is better to insulate this outer part of the window so as not to burden the internal structure.
So, first of all, you need to remove unreliable plaster and dirt around the perimeter of the window. Large holes and cracks are sealed with polyurethane foam or any other heat insulator. Then the protruding parts of the insulation are carefully trimmed and slopes are attached on top. If the space between them and the wall is large enough, it is best to fill it with mineral wool. Filling with foam plastic or penoplex is suitable. An important detail is the ebb. During installation, the space underneath is especially reliably filled with insulation, and the ebb surface itself must have a slope of at least 5˚ to allow water to drain during precipitation.
Installation of slopes inside the house is carried out in the same way. The differences are in the placement of the window sill instead of the ebb and in the finishing materials used, which, as a rule, try to choose better ones that have high aesthetic properties.
The scheme of work is as follows:
- The surface is prepared: cleaned of insulation residues, crumbs and dust.
- It is leveled with plaster and then primed.
- Sheets of insulation are placed on top, and the corresponding elements are placed on them: slopes, window sill, corners.
Both ready-made plastic structures and frame-fixed drywall are used as finishing. The surface is puttied if the material requires it.
When repairing a window that was installed a long time ago, you should check the condition of the old polyurethane foam. Over time, it loses its thermal insulation properties and crumbles. Areas with such worn-out filler, after its removal, are filled with new ones.
Window sill insulation
Under the window sill there is an area of possible heat loss. Poor-quality installation, a decrease in the thermal insulation properties of old insulating material are just some of the reasons leading to the permeability of this area.
The so-called cold window sill most often has two main areas through which low temperatures are transferred into the apartment:
- The space between the wall and the window sill. In this case, the window sill is removed. Then insulation is added or completely replaced with a new one. After installation, the distance between the two surfaces is foamed.
- The line of contact between the window sill and the frame. Cold air flows may be observed due to insufficiently precise fitting during installation or lack of insulation. In this case, a sealant that fills the cracks often helps to insulate the window sill of a plastic window.
Profile
The window profile itself is a fairly dense and solid structure, there are no cracks or gaps in it. Even the mounting points for the fittings are quite sealed. There is no point in waiting for cold air to seep in from this side.
You can decide how to insulate the profile only by paying close attention to the following details:
- The tightness of the junction of the seal and glazing beads in the double-glazed window.
- The tightness of the external seal by examining the frame of the plastic window at the points of contact with the profile adjacent to the wall.
- No frame distortions relative to the wall profile.
The correct location and adjustment of the operation of the fittings are also important here. Shrinkage of the house and aging of the window material lead to imbalance of the clamping mechanism. Careful setup corrects the situation. There are special eccentrics along the sashes that require adjustment. Using a hex key, these eccentrics regulate the degree of pressing of the sashes. The ability to adjust the pressing force is also provided by the loop mechanism. To adjust it, you will need a hex wrench.
You can check whether the insulation procedures were successful in the same way that is used in the process of initially identifying problem areas of the window. If the problem is not corrected by adjustment, there is a high probability that the defect is present in the glass unit itself. The following sections are just about this.
Rubber bands on plastic windows
The so-called seal, a perimeter edge, which is most often inserted into special grooves and serves to tightly and airtightly close the window. According to strict operating standards, it must be regularly cleaned and lubricated with a special softening compound. Of course, rarely does anyone perform such maintenance. Therefore, eventually the rubber dries out and has to be replaced in order to properly insulate the structure.
It is not recommended to change the window seal yourself. Still, it will be difficult for a non-specialist, deprived of the necessary tools, to carry out the entire required amount of work efficiently. But replacing the edging, which follows the contour of the frame and ensures tightness when closing the window, is a task that the average owner can do.
The whole process looks like this:
- Decorative plugs are removed from the hinges.
- Using pliers or a screwdriver, remove the pins.
- The frame is carefully tilted and removed from its hinges.
- The old seal is removed from the groove and replaced with a new one.
- The previous steps are performed in reverse order.
Double-glazed window
In addition to direct insulation for the winter, there are additional options that will increase its thermal insulation properties.
Not letting cool air into your apartment is not all; you can also prevent heat from escaping. For these purposes, insulating film can be used - a material that reflects heat back into the room. In addition to reflection, the film creates an air cushion between itself and the glass, which provides additional thermal insulation.
If you are just planning to install a window and the funds allow, the best solution would be to immediately buy an insulated option or, in other words, a heat-saving package. But if you have standard plastic windows, it will not be superfluous to insulate the windows with film.
This is done quite simply:
- The surface of the glass is cleaned and degreased.
- The frames are covered with thin double-sided tape, onto which the film is stretched.
- It is made of heat-shrinkable material and, after heating with a hairdryer, it flattens out so much that it becomes completely invisible.
There is an even more advanced insulation option - electric heating. If the question is urgent, you can contact a specialized workshop, whose specialist will install this device.
How to insulate slopes
For thermal insulation of warm slopes for plastic windows, use:
- Styrofoam. The material has zero vapor permeability and does not release steam from the room. Has thermal insulation parameters. It has a porous structure and can accumulate moisture inside.
- Extruded polystyrene foam. Used for external insulation. When exposed to high temperatures, it releases harmful substances.
- Mineral wool. It has high vapor permeability and absorbs moisture. Rigid (facade) slabs do not shrink and have poor thermal conductivity. Non-rigid slabs shrink over time. This leads to the appearance of voids in which air convection will take place.
- Sandwich panel. This is a composition of insulation and facing material. Used for external and external types of insulation.
- Penoplex. An analogue of polystyrene foam with the same properties. Designed for insulation of internal and external slopes. Resistant to moisture.
You can insulate slopes from the street by plastering followed by painting. When performed correctly, the method provides hydro- and thermal protection. Suitable for processing window frames made of plastic and wood. Decorative plaster exhibits the same properties.
Foam plastic is recommended to be chosen by users who do not have the skills to insulate slopes. The material is inexpensive, you can perform the necessary tasks yourself.
When working with mineral wool, safety precautions must be observed. The material has a brittle structure and low mass. Small pieces of cotton wool may become suspended in the air. To ensure complete protection, it is recommended to perform the warming procedure wearing a respirator and gloves.
Inside
Having decided on the material, you can move on to the internal insulation of the slopes.
The first step is to do the preparatory work:
- Remains of polyurethane foam are removed from the surface of the window;
- treated with a primer with antibacterial properties. This will protect the structure from formations such as mold and fungi;
- plastering the surface. The layer of plaster should be even. It is necessary to clean the work area and treat the surface with a primer;
- laying thermal insulation material.
After the window slope is insulated, it is necessary to allow the structure to dry. After this, you should putty the corner and apply a finishing coating (plasterboard covering, painting, plastering).
Thermal insulation material should not have a smooth structure. In order for it to stick to the slope, you must first scratch the surface. Good adhesion is ensured and air does not enter the structure.
Outside
Insulating the slopes of plastic windows from the outside faces problems, especially in multi-storey buildings. Insulation from the outside of the window occurs in several stages:
- When installing the structure, the remaining foam is removed. The surface is treated with a primer and antibacterial solution;
- if the slopes are uneven, you will have to plaster the surface;
- the material is cut into fragments and fixed to the slope with glue. To increase strength, the thermal insulation is secured with dowels paired with mushroom-shaped screws. They provide strong adhesion and do not damage the structure of the material;
- a protective corner is installed, glue and a fiberglass mesh are applied. The surface is carefully leveled, another layer of glue is applied;
- After complete drying, the slope is covered with water-based paint or plaster.
The outer part of the slope, made of foam plastic, paint and plaster, will protect the home from heat loss. The element is located at a slight angle; moisture will not accumulate on the window.
Read with this
- Window slopes made of plastic: self-installation
- How to insulate windows for the winter with your own hands: plastic and wooden
- Window without impost
- Insulating windows for the winter with masking tape and other materials
- How to choose self-adhesive insulation for windows and stick it correctly
- Window installation
- Instructions for use. Cosmofen glue: instructions for use
- Using tape to insulate windows
- How to use a Karcher long-handled window cleaner
- 10 proven ways to insulate windows for the winter with your own hands
How to effectively insulate wooden windows in a country house
We want to offer you 5 completely simple but effective options for window insulation. Let's start with the cheapest and time-tested methods, and then move on to more modern ones.
Insulating windows with newspaper
Owners of wooden houses have been using this method for decades. Despite its cheapness, such insulation quite effectively reduces heat loss caused by the presence of gaps between the frame and the sashes.
So, take old newspapers (some use toilet paper) and tear them into small pieces. You can involve children in this activity: they really love to tear something to shreds. Place the pieces in a container and add some water. The water will soften the already thin newsprint and turn it into a plastic mass. Wring out the newspaper, being careful to remove excess water. For strength, some advise adding clay (equal to the amount of paper) or crushed chalk (there should be 2 times more of it than newspapers) to the resulting mass.
The putty obtained in this way must be used immediately. Cover all visible cracks with it. To work, use any tool with a sharp end: a spatula, a knife, a metal ruler; for small holes - a screwdriver, crochet hook or knitting needle. After drying, newsprint will swell and cover all the cracks well.
The final stage is to cover all the “caulked” areas with white window paper. We recommend using regular laundry soap as “glue”. Quickly pull the strip of paper through the water (it’s convenient to do this, for example, in a jug) so that it is covered with water, but does not get wet through. Rub the paper with damp soap and glue all the joints with it. Gently run a dry cloth over each strip of paper, pressing it against the frame. In the spring, it will be enough to wet the strip with a rag soaked in warm water, and the paper will easily come off the window.
Some housewives use cotton wool (you can take technical cotton) or even rags instead of newspapers. It is advisable to use these materials in cases where the gaps in the windows are very large.
Foam or rubber insulation for windows
A simpler and “cleaner” way to get rid of cracks in frames is to use special window seals. They can have a sticky base (like adhesive tape), can be sold without it, or can be mounted in a special groove. The materials used for their manufacture are different, but most often those made of foam rubber and rubber are used to insulate wooden windows.
The seals are attached around the perimeter - either to the sash at the point where it adjoins the frame, or to the frame itself. Thanks to them, the gap between the frame and the sash disappears, and cold air stops penetrating into the room.
Foam rubber seals are cheaper, but they only last for one season: the material breaks down and ceases to cope with its responsibilities. The rubber seal is more expensive, but it will last you for several years.
Window putty and sealant
Very often the glass does not fit tightly to the frame, so heat also leaves the house very quickly through this place. However, the above methods will not work here. The long-known window putty will help everyone get rid of such cracks.
It can be sold in the form of a paste or powder (it must be diluted with water until a plastic, homogeneous consistency is obtained). Some people make their own putty.
In the past, window putty was used to both seal and hold the glass in the frame. Nowadays, glass is held in place mainly by glazing beads, and putty is used only for sealing.
Recently, silicone or acrylic sealant is increasingly being used instead. After drying, it turns into a rubber-like material and reliably closes all the cracks. For this purpose, it is better to buy a sealant of a transparent color, because... it is almost invisible on the glass.
Before working with sealant, it is necessary to remove the glass from the frames and thoroughly clean the wooden surface of previous putty, paint residues and debris. After this, fill the perimeter of the glass seat (the groove in which the glass is installed) with sealant, put it in place and apply the sealant again. All that remains is to nail the glazing beads to the frame.
There is no need to remove the glass when working with putty. Clean the frame as in the previous case and apply the prepared putty into all the cracks, pressing the mixture firmly along the entire edge of the glass. After this, take the glazing bead and press it firmly against the glass. Remove excess putty and nail the bead to the frame. Putty, like sealant, will prevent heat loss, but it needs to be updated more often, because it dries out and cracks.
Insulation of windows with polyurethane foam
If you have large gaps between the wall and the window or under the window sill, from where the cold comes in in winter, it is best to seal them with polyurethane foam. It is sold at any hardware store and is quite cheap. The cracks should be foamed both inside and outside the house (exterior work can be carried out at an air temperature of at least 5°C). Polyurethane foam expands in volume as it dries, so do not fill the holes completely. After drying, trim off any excess with a sharp knife.
This material is destroyed under the influence of ultraviolet radiation, so after the foam has completely hardened, it must be covered with a platband or sealed with paper.
Heat-saving film for windows
So, all the cracks that were in the window have been sealed, but it still continues to be a source of heat loss. The fact is that part of the heat from the house leaves directly through the glass. So, we need to deal with them too.
One of the most modern materials used for window insulation is heat-saving films. They come in two types: some are glued directly to the glass, while others are attached to the frame using double-sided tape. According to the manufacturers, the films practically do not absorb sunlight, so the room does not become darker because of them.
The film consists of several layers, the main one of which is metal. Infrared rays coming from heating sources (often called thermal radiation) are reflected from it and remain in the room - no heat loss occurs. Ordinary glass allows them to pass through, so heat leaves the room.
How do you insulate wooden windows?